Tools/tablesaw/induction: Difference between revisions
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* Location of main power switch and E-Stop |
* Location of main power switch and E-Stop |
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* Clean the Table saw off if it's noticeably dirty |
* Clean the Table saw off if it's noticeably dirty |
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* Make sure that the saw isn't obstructed, the table needs to be empty and there should be nothing around you that will prevent you moving material through the saw |
* Make sure that the saw isn't obstructed, the table needs to be empty and there should be nothing around you that will prevent you moving material through the saw because if you get stuck with the material half-way through the saw there's a risk of kick-back. |
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* The Tablesaw can be moved on castors, you have to push the levers down to deploy the castors so it can be moved. Always put the levers back up before using the saw so it's stable |
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* Check the dust extractor is connected to the main extraction hose and the crown guard hose |
* Check the dust extractor is connected to the main extraction hose and the crown guard hose and examine the hoses to check for cracks. |
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* Check that there is not too much tension on the crown guard hose, such that it is pulling on the crowd guard/riving knife assembly, which makes the saw operate poorly (this has happened once or twice when the hoses have been tweaked). |
* Check that there is not too much tension on the crown guard hose, such that it is pulling on the crowd guard/riving knife assembly, which makes the saw operate poorly (this has happened once or twice when the hoses have been tweaked). |
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* The saw must NEVER be left unattended when turned on |
* The saw must NEVER be left unattended when turned on |
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* Never handle or adjust the blade while the machine is plugged in. |
* Never handle or adjust the blade while the machine is plugged in. |
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* If necessary, set the blade angle. Release the angle lock, and rotate the blade with the wheel on the side. Then re-lock the blade angle. Blade angle can be set accurately with the digital angle gauge. For cuts other than 90 degrees, the saw should be re-set to an accurate 90 degrees after use. |
* If necessary, set the blade angle. Release the angle lock, and rotate the blade with the wheel on the side. Then re-lock the blade angle. Blade angle can be set accurately with the digital angle gauge. For cuts other than 90 degrees, the saw should be re-set to an accurate 90 degrees after use. |
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* Then set the blade height so that the |
* Then set the blade height so that the workpiece will just clear the crown-guard so that isn’t a big gap between the crown guard and the work piece. |
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* Alongside the cast iron table, is an integrated sliding table, which allows safer cross cutting of material using the cross-cut fence. There is a combination blade installed in the saw, which means it can both rip and cross-cut. |
* Alongside the cast iron table, is an integrated sliding table, which allows safer cross cutting of material using the cross-cut fence. There is a combination blade installed in the saw, which means it can both rip and cross-cut. |
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* When crosscutting, use the cross-cut sliding table and cross-cut fence, and have the larger part of the material on the sliding table side of the blade. When Rip-cutting use the static ripping fence and have the larger part of the material on the fence side of the blade. |
* When crosscutting, use the cross-cut sliding table and cross-cut fence, and have the larger part of the material on the sliding table side of the blade. When Rip-cutting use the static ripping fence and have the larger part of the material on the fence side of the blade. |
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| Supporting and handling your material || |
| Supporting and handling your material || |
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* It is important to remember that a work piece should always be supported by either the rip fence, or the cross-cut fence. |
* It is important to remember that a work piece should always be supported by either the rip fence, or the cross-cut fence. |
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* NEVER DO AN UNSUPPORTED CUT ON THE TABLE SAW. |
* NEVER DO AN UNSUPPORTED CUT ON THE TABLE SAW. - DO NOT ATTEMPT FREE-HAND CUTS |
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* WORK MUST BE RESTING FLAT AGAINST THE TABLE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LIFT UP WORK OFF THE TABLE WHILE THE SAW IS SPINNING |
* WORK MUST BE RESTING FLAT AGAINST THE TABLE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LIFT UP WORK OFF THE TABLE WHILE THE SAW IS SPINNING |
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* Doing an unsupported cut risks rotating the work during the cut, which can allow the blade to grab the work and throw back at the operator – called kickback. Kickback is a serious hazard that can result in |
* Doing an unsupported cut risks rotating the work during the cut, which can allow the blade to grab the work and throw back at the operator – called kickback. Kickback is a serious hazard that can result in life changing injuries. Kickback also damages the saw blade and potentially the saw. |
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* When ripping, the HSE recommends that push sticks should be used for all work pieces shorter than 300mm, or for the last 300mm of longer work pieces, especially when the width ripped is less than 150mm. |
* When ripping, the HSE recommends that push sticks should be used for all work pieces shorter than 300mm, or for the last 300mm of longer work pieces, especially when the width ripped is less than 150mm. |
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* There are a range of push sticks and push pads on the wall near the saw for this purpose or you can make more from wood in the scrap bin |
* There are a range of push sticks and push pads on the wall near the saw for this purpose or you can make more from wood in the scrap bin |
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| Making the cut || |
| Making the cut || |
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* Now plug the saw and |
* Now plug the saw in and turn it on at the wall, the extractor will turn on automatically. |
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* Check the setup of the saw, and that nothing is near or touching the blade. Power on the saw. Compete your cut. |
* Check the setup of the saw, and that nothing is near or touching the blade. Power on the saw. Compete your cut. |
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* Do not start the saw with anything in contact with the blade, let it get to full speed before bringing the work up to the blade |
* Do not start the saw with anything in contact with the blade, let it get to full speed before bringing the work up to the blade |
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* It should not take much force to pass the work through the saw. If it does, it is a sign that something is set up wrong, or the blade is dull. |
* It should not take much force to pass the work through the saw. If it does, it is a sign that something is set up wrong, or the blade is dull. |
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* Hardwoods should be fed through the saw a lot slower than softwoods to avoid excessive heating and blade damage |
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* Similarly, if there is a lot of burning through the cut, it is possibly a sign something is set up wrong, or that the blade is dull, so take a moment to consider it. |
* Similarly, if there is a lot of burning through the cut, it is possibly a sign something is set up wrong, or that the blade is dull, so take a moment to consider it. |
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* If you believe the blade is dull then post on the mailing list and someone will check it. |
* If you believe the blade is dull then post on the mailing list and someone will check it. |
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* Power off the saw, and when the blade has stopped spinning, remove your work and off cut. |
* Power off the saw, and when the blade has stopped spinning, remove your work and off cut. |
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* Never retrieve a cut work piece or off-cut while the blade is still spinning (it continues to spin for several seconds after the power is turned off, and this is not always obvious as the view is obscured by the crown guard). |
* Never retrieve a cut work piece or off-cut while the blade is still spinning (it continues to spin for several seconds after the power is turned off, and this is not always obvious as the view is obscured by the crown guard). |
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* [Demonstrate a Rip cup along the fence] |
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* [Demonstrate a cross-cut using the mitre guide on the sliding table] |
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* [Inductee also performs the 2 cuts] |
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|| Cutting the material correctly |
|| Cutting the material correctly |
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Latest revision as of 15:34, 9 November 2023
Some of the tools at the Hackspace are potentially hazardous to use, for these tools members are required to have an induction before they can use them. Inductions provide the most basic information on how to safely and effectively use the simpler functions of the tools, we appreciate that some members may have professional experience on some of these tools and in this case please tell your induction provider and the induction may be very reduced and just cover any risks or procedures specific to rLab. Some tools have multiple levels of induction in order to cover more advanced uses of that tool without making the basic induction take too long, higher induction levels will introduce some of the more advanced features of the tools but as with all inductions are only intended to provide basic information on the capabilities of the tools and how to use them safely. Some members of rLab may be willing to offer more detailed tuition beyond basic induction level or offer guided practice sessions in exchange for beer money or assistance on their own projects.
For all tools you are only required to take level-1 induction before use, after that you may perform any task that you feel confident you can do safely, higher levels of induction may be useful to you in performing more advanced operations but are not required before doing tasks covered in them so long as you're confident of your ability to handle those tasks without risk to yourself, others, or the tool.
PLEASE NOTE : All induction providers are volunteers who are providing inductions to the best of their ability but are NOT qualified instructors. Inductions are provided on a best-effort basis but you and you alone are responsible for your safety while using the tools and for satisfying yourself that you can operate the tools safely. There are professional training courses available from various providers in Reading and the surrounding area if you feel they are appropriate for the level of work you intend to undertake. Reading these notes is NOT a substitute for an in-person induction.
Note for wiki editors : Please do not edit induction pages unless you are one of of the people that gives that induction
The table saw is a Record TS250C table saw. It is a 2HP (1.5Kw) saw, that can cut softwood, hardwood, and composite materials like MDF, plywood, and OSB. It should not be used to cut materials with metal in, such as some reclaimed materials. In particular, it is important to carefully check reclaimed/recycled wood for any nails or screws, which cutting through would damage the blade and be potentially hazardous. Some plastics can be cut on the table saw, but you should check before cutting plastics, as not all behave well.
Topic | Detailed contents | Rationale |
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Table Saw Capabilities |
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What's this tool intended to do. |
Suitable clothing & PPE |
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Basic safety information |
Start-up/Shutdown |
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Stopping and starting! Turning off when unattended and making sure the area is clear |
Types of Cut |
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How to refer to the 2 main types of cut |
Setting up for cuts |
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Setting up basic cuts safely |
Supporting and handling your material |
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Getting the material through the saw without endangering yourself or the saw |
Making the cut |
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Cutting the material correctly |
Cleaning up afterwards |
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Leave the saw cleaner than you found it |
The HSEs advice for the safe use of saw benches can be found here: http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf