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Tools/bandsaw/induction: Difference between revisions
→Bandsaw - Level 2
imported>Stever |
imported>Stever |
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Line 187:
* Loose sawdust can be hoovered off
* Any large lumps should be pried off with a screwdriver, being careful not to dig into the tyre as it's a fairly brittle material
* Generally heavy deposits of sawdust can be removed with a wire
* Using a wire wheel in a portable drill can be effective but the wheel must be kept moving AT ALL TIMES or the wire wheel will dig into the tyre, so it's a 2-man job to do it this way. This only works because our tyres are quite hard rubber, other bandsaws with softer tyres will be damaged if you try this!
* UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES try to use the bandsaw's own power to rotate wheels while cleaning tyres
Line 210:
* Examine the belt carefully for kinks or twists
* Selecting a suitable gear for the new blade, changing pulleys is easier done without the blade in position.
* Throwing out the new blade after warning anyone else in the area! Use the metal cutting blade this time.
** Untwisting the blade by hand is possible but it can sometimes whip out and cut you
* Slide the blade into place, fitting is reverse of removal.
Line 232:
* Stop the saw and re-fit all bearing guides
|| Blade will tend to twist if not tracked properly
|-▼
| Nulling blade lead ||▼
Blades will tend not to cut accurately against the fence when first fitted so there's a need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade. If it's not set correctly then the blade will tend to push/pull the work towards/away from the fence and give wonky cuts. The blade lead also drifts over time as the blade wears because the wear is seldom perfectly symmetric, so if you notice that the saw is pulling to one side while cutting then the lead probably needs adjusting.▼
* The blade must be properly tracked before doing this as tracking affects blade lead▼
* Preparing a suitable block of wood with parallel lines on it, block needs to be at least 300mm, MDF is preferred owing to lack of grain so the saw can move through it without anything other than the blade lead controlling the path it takes.▼
* Move the fence well away▼
* Cut carefully but quickly along one of the parallel lines stopping when half-way though and being very careful not to move the wood once you stop▼
* Turn off the bandsaw and if possible clamp the wood in place, all without moving it at all.▼
* Bring the fence up to the wood block, release the adjusters and adjust it parallel to the wood block, lock down the adjusters▼
* Repeat until the lead is reduced to an acceptable level.▼
* If using a metal-cutting blade then obviously metal test blocks must be used▼
* Post on the maintenance section of the bandsaw's wiki page if you've done this other than as routine at a blade change▼
* Checking blade lead when making difficult/long/thick cuts▼
* Using fence clamping immediately after a lead check for especially awkward cuts on large objects▼
|| Correcting blade lead will result in neater cuts and longer blade life.▼
|-
| Using sliding metal vice ||
Line 273 ⟶ 257:
* Switching back to ripping blade.
|| Using the fine blade for detailed work
▲|-
▲| Nulling blade lead ||
▲Blades will tend not to cut accurately against the fence when first fitted so there's a need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade. If it's not set correctly then the blade will tend to push/pull the work towards/away from the fence and give wonky cuts. The blade lead also drifts over time as the blade wears because the wear is seldom perfectly symmetric, so if you notice that the saw is pulling to one side while cutting then the lead probably needs adjusting.
▲* The blade must be properly tracked before doing this as tracking affects blade lead
▲* Preparing a suitable block of wood with parallel lines on it, block needs to be at least 300mm long, MDF is preferred owing to lack of grain so the saw can move through it without anything other than the blade lead controlling the path it takes.
▲* Move the fence well away
▲* Cut carefully but quickly along one of the parallel lines stopping when half-way though and being very careful not to move the wood once you stop
▲* Turn off the bandsaw and if possible clamp the wood in place, all without moving it at all.
▲* Bring the fence up to the wood block, release the adjusters and adjust it parallel to the wood block, lock down the adjusters
▲* Repeat until the lead is reduced to an acceptable level.
▲* If using a metal-cutting blade then obviously metal test blocks must be used
▲* Post on the maintenance section of the bandsaw's wiki page if you've done this other than as routine at a blade change
▲* Checking blade lead when making difficult/long/thick cuts
▲* Using fence clamping immediately after a lead check for especially awkward cuts on large objects
▲|| Correcting blade lead will result in neater cuts and longer blade life.
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| Checking and changing oil ||
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