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Tools/bandsaw/induction: Difference between revisions
→Bandsaw - Level 2
imported>Stever |
pi_wiki>Stever |
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* Spin the blade by hand and adjust the blade tracking to seat it into proper position
* Bring the blade up to the normal tension for that thickness
* Tracking adjustment will now be needed
* Close doors and put the gearbox into the proper gear▼
* Once you are done with this job, the coarse ripping blade must be re-fitted.▼
|| Different blades are used to get access to the full capacities of the saw
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* Start the saw and move the adjuster slowly, noting which way the blade moves
* Get the correct position
** Using the guide tool and a
** How accurate it needs to be depends on what you're doing, within a millimeter or so is typical
* Stop the saw and re-fit all bearing guides▼
** If you're fitting the old blade back and leaving it for others, be as accurate as you reasonably can
▲* Stop the saw and re-fit all bearing guides and adjust them properly
▲* Close doors and put the gearbox into the proper gear
▲* Once you are done with this job, the coarse ripping blade must be re-fitted.
|| Blade will tend to twist if not tracked properly
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Line 252 ⟶ 253:
* Inductees fit new blade
* Take care with the tension, it's easy to snap a thin blade. If you've not adjusted the tension gauges and they're out, now is a good time to do so
* Precise tracking adjustment is very challenging on thin blades, so it's normally to just center it on the wheels and leave it at that
* Greater accuracy is required with setting the bearing guides, a tighter fit will give you more control for freehand cuts but don't leave it like that when you're done as it'll wear out the bearings
* Very thin blades are most often used for fine curved work, not usually against the fence or mitre gauge
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