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== Introduction to the Blade
The Basic Blade
There's
Clothing wise don't wear anything that's good, it's going to get a bit dirty and possibly burnt spots! Overalls are ideal if you have them, otherwise reasonably sturdy clothing. Avoid synthetic fabrics as best you can
== Notes for non-members ==
There's been quite a bit of interest in this course and the possible follow-up courses from people who aren't members of rLab. I'm very happy this course has garnered this level of interest and I thought I should explain a little about how people can take part. In order to take part in this course you do need to be (or become) a member of rLab, this is because the the two "Solo work" sections require you to have access to the tools and equipment at rLab and to use them un-supervised. Our insurance requires that anyone who's got unsupervised access to the building must be a member and have their details recorded in our membership database.
You can simply join for one month (at a cost of £25) take the course and then drop your membership, although you're very welcome to stay on as a member, rLab memberships are a month-to-month thing with no long-term commitment required. In order to join you'll have to arrange to sign up and receive your [[Hackspaceinduction|hackspace induction]] at some time before the workshop. The process normally takes around 60-90 minutes but might be considerably shorter for people who're already members of other hackspaces as you'll already be familiar with what hackspaces, how they work, and normal member responsibilities.
== Workshop plan - Day 1 ==
* What we're going to do[[File:basicknife.jpg|250px|thumb|The type of simple knife that's made in this workshop]]
** Making a small utility knife
** I've made
** Show the metal, micarta, rivets, wood. Show the knife
** Describe the basic forging, making tang, drawing out blade, grind, harden, grind, handle, sharpen
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** In case of fire, TURN GAS OFF!
** What types of extinguisher to use on what sort of fire
** We cannot extinguish metal fires,
** NEVER use an extinguisher on the forge it's self, it has nothing flammable anyway
** Hazards of the oil for quenching
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*** Effects of oxidizing and reducing flames – Scale, Temperature, Decarburization
** What steels we have available
***
*** Maybe EN47 - +£5, TOUGH! OK sharpness, rusts, harder to work
*** Maybe BS1407 - +£7 Hard, excellent sharpness, rusts, harder to work
*** Others I can get if you want to go further but don't have right now
* Welding onto the dop rods
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** Emphasise use a LOT of weld material
** Need to normalize the welds
** They are
*** Watch for starting of cracks
*** DO NOT TRY TO CATCH THE HOT METAL
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** Don't bother smoothing off corners or polishing
** Cleaning up the grinder when done
== Solo Work - Grinding the blades ==
Participant grinds their blades into approximate shape, can contact me if they need help
== Workshop plan - Day 2 ==
* Checking the grind, correcting if needed
** Making sure the edge isn't too fine and going to get bent over
** How we'll refine the shape further and put on the final bevels after hardening
* Cutting the scales and pins to fit
** Choosing the scale material (Possibility of premium options)
*** Basic hardwood as standard
*** Tiger-Stripe scales - +£10
*** Yew Timber - +£5
*** Worm-patterned timber - +£5
** Choosing pins (Possibility of premium options)
** Cutting the scales to size and aligning the grain, leaving enough margin around the edges
** Cutting Micarta to the same size and taping up the bundle to hold alignment
* Drilling the tang for the pins
** Marking out method to get the pins central
** Considering the balance and look, avoiding the tapered areas
** Centerpunching and then drilling out
** The need for Cobalt drills as regular ones wear out too fast and use of cutting fluid
*** What will happen if there are hard spots and how to cope with that.
* Drilling the scales to fit the tang
** Using the tang as a guide to get the drill holes in the right place, need to keep the bundle tapped up
* Drilling out the tang to achieve balance if needed
** How to find the balance point, where it should lie
** How removing material and replacing it with resin changes that
* Normalizing and straightening the blade
* Recap the hardening process
* Harden the blades
* Temper the blades
<big>'''LUNCH BREAK!'''</big>
* Differential tempering
* Laser etching or gun-blacking or neither as individual prefers.
* Grinding in the final bevels
* [[Techniques/sharpening|Sharpening the blades]] to at least 1000 grit
* Glue on the scales and cure in the oven
* Grinding back the scales to suit the blade
* Begin the treatments with danish oil
== Solo Work - Final finishing ==
* Complete the treatments with danish oil
* Final sharpening up to at least 4000 grit and stropping
[[Category:Workshops]]
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