Workshops/bladesmithing: Difference between revisions

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== Introduction to the Blade -Smithing workshop==
The Basic Blade Smithing workshop is intended as an introduction to the use of the forge and some of the common techniques used to make simple blades by the traditional methods. The workshop takes the form of 2 days, at least a week apart. The first day will be the actual forging process for the blades along with
hardeningThe Basic Blade-Smithing workshop is intended as an introduction to the use of the [[Tools/forge|forge]] and some of the common techniques used to make simple blades by the traditional methods. The workshop takes the form of 2 days, at least a week apart as well as some solo work. The first day is the actual forging process for the blades along with annealing and some of the initial grinding. Then each participant can go off and finish the grinding for their blades separately, since we only have one [[Tools/largelinisher|large linisher]], and the process could easily take several hours per person. Second day, a week or two later will beis finalising the grind, hardening the blade, making and fitting the handles, surface treatments, sharpening, etching if wanted. If people prefer a 1-on-1 course that is also available which allows the workshop to be broken up into 4 or 5 half-days for more flexibility in scheduling. Examples of the types of knife that are made during these workshops are available to [[User:Stever/Bladesmithing/examples|view or buy]].
 
There's going to be a charge of £2040 per person (£3565 for 1-to-1) to cover cost of standard materials and consumables, premium materials like higher grade steels or fancy timbers for the handles may be available at cost, depending on availability. It would be helpful but not essential if you're already inducted on the [[tools/metalchopsaw|metal chop saw]] ,the [[tools/bandsaw|bandsaw]] and at least one of the welding machines ( I like [[Tools/migEMP235ic|MIG]] best for this but any of them will work ) Please bring photo ID proving that you're over 18 and the course fee in cash, or we won't be able to continue. This workshop requires a moderate level of physical ability but isn't overly taxing. If you're able stand comfortably for a few hours, to walk up stairs without getting out of breath and to comfortably raise both arms above your shoulders then you should be fine.
 
Clothing wise don't wear anything that's good, it's going to get a bit dirty and possibly burnt spots! Overalls are ideal if you have them, otherwise reasonably sturdy clothing. Avoid synthetic fabrics as best you can causebecause they can catch fire easily. Safety boots if you have them, otherwise sturdy shoes that you don't mind getting messed up.
 
BeThese will be quite long days, at least 8 hours and quite possibly 10, be aware that unless you're used to this sort of work you're likely to be very sore the day after, especially in the forearms!
 
== WorkshopNotes planfor non-members ==
There's been quite a bit of interest in this course and the possible follow-up courses from people who aren't members of rLab. I'm very happy this course has garnered this level of interest and I thought I should explain a little about how people can take part. In order to take part in this course you do need to be (or become) a member of rLab, this is because the the two "Solo work" sections require you to have access to the tools and equipment at rLab and to use them un-supervised. Our insurance requires that anyone who's got unsupervised access to the building must be a member and have their details recorded in our membership database.
 
You can simply join for one month (at a cost of £25) take the course and then drop your membership, although you're very welcome to stay on as a member, rLab memberships are a month-to-month thing with no long-term commitment required. In order to join you'll have to arrange to sign up and receive your [[Hackspaceinduction|hackspace induction]] at some time before the workshop. The process normally takes around 60-90 minutes but might be considerably shorter for people who're already members of other hackspaces as you'll already be familiar with what hackspaces, how they work, and normal member responsibilities.
* What we're going to do
 
== Workshop plan - Day 1 ==
 
* What we're going to do[[File:basicknife.jpg|250px|thumb|The type of simple knife that's made in this workshop]]
** Making a small utility knife
** I've made 330 blades so far, allmostly successful but I am not an expert
** Show the metal, micarta, rivets, wood. Show the knife
** Describe the basic forging, making tang, drawing out blade, grind, harden, grind, handle, sharpen
** Legality, what we're doing is legal and why, what you can and can't do
* General Safety
** Clothing, overalls best, nothing flammable, avoid synthetics
** Heavy boots, toe-capped preferred
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** In case of fire, TURN GAS OFF!
** What types of extinguisher to use on what sort of fire
** We cannot extinguish metal fires, useput theit vermiculiteon toa smotherfireproof surface and let it burn out
** NEVER use an extinguisher on the forge it's self, it has nothing flammable anyway
** Hazards of the oil for quenching
** Hazards of metals high in nickel, chrome, cadmium etc, and protection needed
** Arc-eye hazards of welding
* How steels behave and heat treatments
** Use the diagram to explain things
** The states the steel can be in, what is critical temperature and why it matters.
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*** Effects of oxidizing and reducing flames – Scale, Temperature, Decarburization
** What steels we have available
*** 10951080 – Standard, easy to work with, sharp, OK toughness, rusts
*** Maybe EN47 - +£5, TOUGH! OK sharpness, rusts, harder to work
*** Maybe BS1407 - +£7 Hard, excellent sharpness, rusts, harder to work
*** Others I can get if you want to go further but don't have right now
* Welding onto the dop rods
** Anyone competent does their own, anyone else I do
** Emphasise use a LOT of weld material
** Need to normalize the welds
** They are GOINGhighly likely to break, what to do when they do
*** Watch for starting of cracks
*** DO NOT TRY TO CATCH THE HOT METAL
*** Pick it up IMMEDIATELY with grips, place onto hot-safe surface
* Lighting the forge [[File:Forgewarmingup.jpg|250px|thumb|Getting metal warmed up in the forge]]
*Lighting the forge
[[File:Forgewarmingup.jpg|250px|thumb|Getting metal warmed up in the forge]]
** Describe the forge and it's parts
** How the tunnel can be opened longer for bigger objects
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*** Large flames are more stable, small flames may result in burner over-heat, check this often
** Starting up the second burner if you have a need to for a long object
* Normalizing [[File:Forgehotmetal.jpg|250px|thumb|Normalizing the welds for the first time]]
*Normalizing
[[File:Forgehotmetal.jpg|250px|thumb|Normalizing the welds for the first time]]
** Why we need to normalize
** What it does
** Proper procedure
** What happens if we're not hot enough, or too hot!
* Hammering technique
* Flattening out the rod
** Holding the hammer right
[[File:Forgehammering.jpg|250px|thumb|Hammering out the tang]]
** Aim from your arm, power from your shoulder
** Striking parallel, on the metal. You can tap the anvil but never strike it
* Flattening out the rod [[File:Forgehammering.jpg|250px|thumb|Hammering out the tang]]
** Heating to a suitable colour, testing with magnet if you need to
** Squaring it off but not all the way to the dop rod
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** Don't bother smoothing off corners or polishing
** Cleaning up the grinder when done
 
== Solo Work - Grinding the blades ==
Participant grinds their blades into approximate shape, can contact me if they need help
 
== Workshop plan - Day 2 ==
* Checking the grind, correcting if needed
** Making sure the edge isn't too fine and going to get bent over
** How we'll refine the shape further and put on the final bevels after hardening
* Cutting the scales and pins to fit
** Choosing the scale material (Possibility of premium options)
*** Basic hardwood as standard
*** Tiger-Stripe scales - +£10
*** Yew Timber - +£5
*** Worm-patterned timber - +£5
** Choosing pins (Possibility of premium options)
** Cutting the scales to size and aligning the grain, leaving enough margin around the edges
** Cutting Micarta to the same size and taping up the bundle to hold alignment
* Drilling the tang for the pins
** Marking out method to get the pins central
** Considering the balance and look, avoiding the tapered areas
** Centerpunching and then drilling out
** The need for Cobalt drills as regular ones wear out too fast and use of cutting fluid
*** What will happen if there are hard spots and how to cope with that.
* Drilling the scales to fit the tang
** Using the tang as a guide to get the drill holes in the right place, need to keep the bundle tapped up
* Drilling out the tang to achieve balance if needed
** How to find the balance point, where it should lie
** How removing material and replacing it with resin changes that
* Normalizing and straightening the blade
* Recap the hardening process
* Harden the blades
* Temper the blades
 
<big>'''LUNCH BREAK!'''</big>
 
* Differential tempering
* Laser etching or gun-blacking or neither as individual prefers.
* Grinding in the final bevels
* [[Techniques/sharpening|Sharpening the blades]] to at least 1000 grit
* Glue on the scales and cure in the oven
* Grinding back the scales to suit the blade
* Begin the treatments with danish oil
 
== Solo Work - Final finishing ==
* Complete the treatments with danish oil
* Final sharpening up to at least 4000 grit and stropping
 
 
[[Category:Workshops]]
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