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Tools/routertable/induction: Difference between revisions
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| Capabilities ||
* The router table is used to
* It has a variety of accessories to
* It is not intended to remove large amounts of material but with care it can be used to cut material to complex shapes
* It can be used with templates/jigs to produce complex cut-outs including ones where a central entry point is needed so other tools are not suitable
* For large cuts in heavy materials then consider the [[Tools/bandsaw|Bandsaw]] or [[Tools/tablesaw|Table Saw]] instead
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* The work is moved slowly against the bit, cutting a linear shape into the edge of the work.
* The depth of cut can be accurately set and using the fence a straight line can be accurately followed
* Using "follower" bits (ones with bearings) a template/jig can be followed to make
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Basics of how the router works
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*Most softwoods and hardwoods, beware of plywood as it cuts inconsistently and can get snagged
*Plywood and MDF will dull cutters faster regular timber, they can be used, but check cutters afterwards
*Some
*No Metals at all, not even thin aluminium or diebond, they can become lethal projectiles.
|| What stuff can be used on this machine
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| General Safety ||
*Unplug before making any adjustments
*There are 3 places that the electrical supply to the router can be switched from▼
#The wall socket - This is your main safety method, unplug when adjusting!▼
#The push switch on the front of the table - This is the main way to control the router in normal use▼
#The red switch on the router it's self - This is only for changing bits▼
*Handle router bits with care, they can be extremely sharp
*Examine your work piece before routing it, defects and knots in the wood are likely to result in more difficult cutting and increased risk of material breakage when they meet the cutter. It will be necessary to either avoid them or cut much more slowly and carefully when going through them.
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| Setting Up the machine ||
'''Powering On'''
▲*There are 3 places that the electrical supply to the router can be switched from
▲#The wall socket - This is your main safety method, unplug when adjusting!
▲#The push switch on the front of the table - This is the main way to control the router in normal use
▲#The red switch on the router it's self - This is only for changing bits
'''Types of cutting bit'''[[File:LabeledRouterBack.jpg|thumb|200px|]]
* Edge Cutters - are for creating decorative profiles or join rebates, they often have ball bearings at the end so there may not be a need for a fence guide.
* Groove Cutters - create channels starting at edges and don't generally use guide bearings so the fence will be needed
* for images and explanation of each bit a good website https://www.rockler.com/router-bit-basics-common-types-router-bit
'''Fitting a collet and router bit'''
#Ensure the power switch is OFF and the router is disconnected from the mains
#Ensure the retracting shutter is fully closed (3), it will cause the router to jam during this procedure if it isn't and it quite difficult to release once jammed. The cover can only be closed when the switch is in the off position.
#Check the depth stop lock knob (11) is fully retracted and release the Plunge Lock Lever (7)
#Plunge the router to its maximum depth (raise the spindle all the way) using the micro winder (8) and engage the plunge lock lever (7) [[File:LabeledRouterFront.jpg|center|thumb|200px|]]
#Rotate the spindle (careful not to cut yourself on the bit) to engage the spindle lock
#Remove the green circle
#Use the spanner to loosen and remove the router head and collet (5) you have to untighten twice to undo [[File:RouterTop.png|thumb|200px|]]
#Check that the collet in the router head is suitably sized for the new bit and change if needed. Be especially careful not to confuse 1/4"(6.35mm) with 6mm collets, or 1/2"(12.7mm) with 12mm collets.
#Insert the new router bit into the collet (5) with a small gap from the painted section make sure it's not too far out as this will make it unstable, then use the spanner to tighten the collet (5) so that it holds the bit firmly [[File:RouterBitPlacement.jpg|thumb]]
#Disengage the plunge lock lever (7). and lower the spindle a bit, this will release the collet lock and the retracting switch cover (3)
#Check once again that power is off and turn
<br>
'''Choosing a speed'''
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| Setting up for your cut ||
* Use the micro-winder to set up the depth of cut you're after
** If you can't get to the proper depth within the adjustment range of the winder, then you may have to re-position the bit in the collet
** Tighten the locking lever once you have your desired height
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** Plan out how you're going to move the work against the cutter to ensure it's always moving in the proper direction.
* Check the area around you. You're going to have to move the work into and out of the cutting zone, plan how you're going to do this. Make sure the areas to both sides of the router table and clear and nothing is going to get in the way of your work.
* Plan how you're going to handle your
|| How to get the results you want
|-
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#Check your PPE is properly fitted
#Turn on the dust extraction
#Workpiece should not be near the cutter when starting
#Turn on Table Switch and the router will start
#Bring your work up to the cutter
#Move your work against the cutter smoothly
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#Examine the router bit and check if it's still sharp, if it's blunt then buy a new one and submit the receipt or let the maintainers know so it can be re-sharpened
#Use a portable vacuum to clean the router table and the area around the cutting bit
#Sweep up the area around the router table. The dust
|| Leave the saw cleaner than you found it, cleanliness is a safety issue when working around others.
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If the retracting Switch cover (3) will not close:
#Release Plunge Lock lever (7)
#Lower the spindle with the micro
If you're getting a rough surface finish
#Don't push so hard
#Adjust speed
#Bad timber, some timber just can't be cut nicely, plywood especially
#Blunt cutter bits will give a poor finish
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