Tools/mitresaw/induction: Difference between revisions

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'''NOTICE, THIS WIKI PAGE IS INCOMPLETE AND I WILL TRY TO FINISH IT OVER THE NEXT WEEK'''
 
{{inductioninfo}}
 
== Introduction==
The [[Tools/mitresaw|mitre saw]], also known as a chop saw, is one of the most basic bench tools in woodworking. Do not let its simplicity fool you: it is as useful a tool as it is simple. It can be used for anything from cutting long planks down to size to making accurate bevels.
 
== Induction Level 1 ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Topic !! Detailed contents !! Rationale
|-
| FunctionalityCapabilities and limitations || This tool can be used for cutting all woodstypes of timber up to a size of 300 mm for a straight cut and 200 mm for a 45 degree cut, and someup plasticsto a 200 mm height. Be extremely wary of nails when using reclaimed wood, as this can rip off teeth and make the tool unbalanced and less functional. The Mitre saw can be used to cut plastics, some plastics will give better results than others so make a test cut if it's an important piece (the blade must be changed in order to do this). This tool will not cut metal. and any attempt to do so will cause severe damage, if you need to cut metal then the [[Tools/bandsaw|bandsaw]](requires level-2 induction) or [[Tools/metalchopsaw|cold-cut saw]] can be used || Description of what the tool can and cannot safely do.
|-
| Proper clothing & PPE ||
* Long hair including facial hair must be tied back.
* No jewelry, especially no watches, rings or necklaces/pendants
* Either tight sleeves or short sleeves or loose sleeves rolled up.
* Mention catch points: Most notably the knobs, the guard, and the blade itself.
* Goggles and ear protection is essential
|| Any loose hanging clothing or hair can get tangled, either pulling someone in or immobilizing the user.
* For larger projects or cutting treated timbers then a dust mask is a good idea, for cutting small amounts of regular timber it's optional
|-
* Consider the risk of lead-based paints on reclaimed timber
| PPE || For general use, goggles and ear protecters are essential. But for more major projects or projects on plastics or treated woods, a dust mask is also recommended. || This protects the human body from the noise and particulates that come from operating a mitre saw.
* Use the air-filter above the bench when the mitre saw is in use.
|| Any loose hanging clothing or hair can get tangled, either pulling someone in or immobilizing the user, PPE is needed for safety.
|-
| Nomenclature ||
* Fence
* Bed
* Compound rail
* Rail
* Safety catch
* Guard
Line 33 ⟶ 34:
|| Allows for easy communication
|-
| Adjustment the saw for your cut ||
| Adjustments || Ensure the machine is switched off prior to all adjustments, and ensure that all locks are in place prior to switching on. To adjust the mitre, unscrew the knob and lift the handle at the end of the bed, adjust to a custom mitre angle or use the slots at the base of the bed to adjust to 15, 22.5, 30, or 45 degrees; retighten the knob when finished. To adjust the bevel angle, pull the lever located underneath the rail, then turn the unit counterclockwise until you are at the correct bevel angle. The slide position does not need to be adjusted, but when in use it should be extended as far out as is necessary prior to switching on, and when not in use it should be contracted as deep in as possible locked by twisting the red screw above the rail. || This ensures that the tool is correctly adjusted for minimal later adjustment.
* Ensure the machine is switched off prior to all adjustments, and ensure that all locks are in place prior to switching on.
* To adjust the mitre, unscrew the knob and lift the handle at the end of the bed, adjust to a custom mitre angle between 0 and 57 degrees or use the slots at the base of the bed to adjust to 0, 15, 22.5, 30, or 45 degrees; re-tighten the knob when finished. These angles are fairly accurate, but if in doubt, use the angle gauge (found above the wood lathe).
* To adjust the bevel angle, pull the lever located underneath the rail, then turn the unit counterclockwise until you are at the correct bevel angle. The scales are reasonably accurate but if you're trying to make tight-fitting parts then do test cuts
* The compound slide position does not need to be adjusted, but when in use it should be extended as far out as is necessary prior to switching on, and when not in use it should be contracted as deep in as possible locked by twisting the red screw above the rail.
|| Getting the saw properly set up at the start is essential for safety and will make later adjustment easier
|-
|Positioning ||
| Starup / shutdown || Ensure all adjustments are complete and locked BEFORE startup. Switch on the mains on the blue column (I will attach this to a double socket that'll switch on a shopvac soon). Position the wood in such a way that it is easily accessible and in the correct position without needing to reach in front of, under, or behind the saw.
* Consider your work area, make sure you can move your work into and out of the saw without getting caught up on anything or putting others in danger of getting hit.
 
* Ensure all adjustments are complete and locked BEFORE startup.
Hold the wood firmly against the fence, keeping your hands well clear of the red area, and test that the blade lands in the correct position (always cut a bit before or after your line such that the edge of the blade is on the line, not the center, this ensures an accurate cut with minimal waste). Start the mitre saw by clicking the red trigger. When the blade has stopped increasing in speed (indicated by wizzing sound becoming constant), pull the safety catch up, and gradually lower the blade onto your work. If you are using the slide feature, keep the trigger clicked and slide in (away from yourself). Release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing from your work. || This ensures correct use of the tool.
* Connect up the blue scheppach shopvac to the dust extract port
** The dust extract isn't very good but it's better than nothing so use it
* Make sure the saw is plugged in, it uses a 110 V power source, which is why it's connected to a small yellow box (the transformer). It must not be used with extension leads.
| Starup / shutdown || Ensure all adjustments are complete and locked BEFORE startup. Switch on the mains on the blue column (I will attach this to a double socket that'll switch on a shopvac soon).* Position the wood in such a way that it is easily accessible and in the correct position without needing to reach in front of, under, or behind the saw.
** Clearance needs to long items.
* Hold the wood firmly against the fence, keeping your hands well clear of the red area, or use a clamp, and test that the blade lands in the correct position. Work must always be held firmly against the fence, freehand cutting of any sort is NOT ALLOWED.
* Consider the forces you are exerting to hold the work securely, ensure that if you slip or fall you will not move towards the blade
* If the work cannot be held securely against the fence in a way that can't rotate or move owing to it's size/shape/orientation, then it cannot be cut on the mitre saw, perhaps consider the [[Tools/tablesaw|table saw]] or [[Tools/bandsaw|bandsaw]] instead.
** This means round items and bits of tree are not normally suitable for this saw, consider using the bandsaw with suitable cribbing instead
** Plastics are especially prone to snatching and causing dangerous situations so fixing and clamping must be better then for timber
* If the work has a high aspect ratio then consider what orientation to hold it in to avoid the saw kicking it up. Place the flattest parts of the wood on the bed and fence, with the narrowest flat side on the fence.
* Always cut a bit before or after your line such that the edge of the blade is on the line and the centre is on the waste side, this ensures an accurate cut with minimal waste.
* Consider where your sawdust and chips are going to go, warn people if necessary.
|| These considerations can significantly improve pleasantness for user, and those around them
|-
| Startup / cutting / shutdown ||
| Cleaning up || Switch the machine off at the socket. Run the shopvac on and around the mitre saw, and lift the guard and clean underneath it as well. If using for extended periods of time, brush the work area down, especially around the cutting area. || Clean up ensures pleasant use and reduced fire risk.
* Turn on the cylinder vac
* Start the mitre saw by clicking the red trigger. When the blade reaches maximum speed (indicated by wizzing sound becoming constant), pull the safety catch up, and gradually lower the blade onto your work, once your cut is complete then release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the blade from your work. Wait for the blade to return to the top before switching back on.
* If you are using the slide feature, keep the trigger clicked and slide in (away from yourself). Release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the blade from your work.
* Turn off the cylinder vac
* Brush down the bed between cuts as a buildup of sawdust will make it harder to hold the work securely against the fence.
* If the cut seems to take unusual force or if it burns the wood, then the blade may need replacement, post on the mailing list to get this arranged.
* [Demonstrate straight, mitre and bevel cuts]
* [Inductee makes at least one cut]
|| This ensures the correct use of the tool.
|-
| Cleaning up ||
* Switch the machine off at the socket.
* If you have large scraps, put them in the scrap bin, very large scraps go in the scrap pile by the door
* Use the dustpan for large accumulations of sawdust.
* Run the shopvac on and around the mitre saw, and lift the guard and clean underneath it as well.
* Where the bags for the Henry are kept and how to empty the scheppach
* If your timber has oily/greasy/paint-y residues on the bed the acetone can be used to clean the metal parts of the mitre saw.
|| Clean up ensures pleasant use and reduced fire risk.
|}
 
[[Category:Inductions]]