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Tools/mig/induction: Difference between revisions
→MIG Welder induction - Level 2
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Line 258:
*** blowing holes in material - MUCH too much voltage
*** Lots of sparks and brown/porous weld - not enough gas or too far away
* Using tip-dip▼
** The dip is to keep the tip clean, it tends to prevent spatter from sticking to the nozzle▼
** The dip is waxy and has to be applied while the tip is hot so you do a bit of welding first, then dunk the tip into the dip and shake off excess▼
** Only a thin coating is needed and you don't have to reapply too often, every 10-20 minutes of arc time is fine▼
** Spatter can just be rubbed off with a gloves finger as the spatter will not stick▼
* Using anti-spatter spray▼
** The spray is to protect your work if it needs to be very clean and you can't easily clean it other ways▼
** The spray is applied to the work before you start and prevents the spatter from sticking to it. ▼
** You can weld through the sprayed on coating so long as you don't apply it too heavily▼
** But if your welds are structural or otherwise sensitive to contamination, don't use it▼
* Controlling weld distortion
** Metal pulls towards the heat source when it cools and so it pulls in the direction of travel
Line 297 ⟶ 307:
*** Spray transfer is recommended, although globular transfer might help
* Lap joints of dissimilar thickness and dealing with burn-back issues
▲* Using tip-dip
▲** The dip is to keep the tip clean, it tends to prevent spatter from sticking to the nozzle
▲** The dip is waxy and has to be applied while the tip is hot so you do a bit of welding first, then dunk the tip into the dip and shake off excess
▲** Only a thin coating is needed and you don't have to reapply too often, every 10-20 minutes of arc time is fine
▲** Spatter can just be rubbed off with a gloves finger as the spatter will not stick
▲* Using anti-spatter spray
▲** The spray is to protect your work if it needs to be very clean and you can't easily clean it other ways
▲** The spray is applied to the work before you start and prevents the spatter from sticking to it.
▲** You can weld through the sprayed on coating so long as you don't apply it too heavily
▲** But if your welds are structural or otherwise sensitive to contamination, don't use it
* Welding hardening steels
** Attempting to weld hardened or heat-hardenable steels by conventional approaches will usually result in cracking
** Consider what wire material you want to use, given the strength of joint you need.
*** Aluminium is the very softest wire, but can only be used on aluminium or titanium
*** Bronze is the
*** Stainless steel is harder and stronger but does carry more risk of cracks and needs more care
*** Using a hardenable wire gives the strongest result but has the highest risk of cracking
Line 327:
*** This can take the form of simply wrapping the work in insulation to slow it's cooling, or using the blowtorch or oven.
*** Cooling times will vary with weld size, for large welds several hours may be needed
** Post-annealing can help if it's done
*** Heating the metal up to annealing point and cooling very slowly can be very effective in relieving stresses in the metal
*** But be aware it may change the bulk properties of the workpeice
** Weld peening can help in difficult situations
* Welding mild steel in position 3
* Changing the gas bottle
* Changing wire, torches and liners, proper setting of wire feed and tension
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