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Tools/mig/induction: Difference between revisions
→MMA (Stick welding) Induction: more info on bad welds
imported>Stever |
imported>Stever (→MMA (Stick welding) Induction: more info on bad welds) |
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Line 320:
** Make sure the electrode size is suitable for the work
** Rods must be kept dry, all rods are moisture sensitive but some more so than others
*** Damp rods will form shitty welds and tend to result in slag entrapment and worm holes
** Baking rods if they're not brand new
** Keeping them in a rod oven if you get serious about MMA welding.
Line 348 ⟶ 349:
** Navigating the menus and selecting MMA mode
** Setting suitable current for the electrode size
*** Check online for calculators for current, but absent other guidance, 75-90A for a 2.4mm electrode, 115-140A for a 3.2mm.
** Changing over the leads and connecting the stinger
* Proper position of self and electrode, direction of motion
Line 364 ⟶ 366:
* Moving the pool along
* Keeping the electrode at the nose of the pool
* Dragging the puddle along behind the rod
* Using the arc force to keep the slag out of the weld
* Moving patterns, circles, arc, steady
* You may need to adjust the shade of your mask to get a clear view
Line 377 ⟶ 378:
| Problems ||
[Deliberately set up and demonstrate each of these faults]
* Arc too Long - Large arc visible and moving, puddle wide and flat, lots of spatter, undercut risk
* Angle wrong - Poor visibility, lots of slag trapped in the weld "Worm holes"
|| Recognizing faults and knowing how to fix them▼
* Too Hot - Weld sounds very different, hissing not "frying bacon"; puddle overly large, concave and spattery; Deep v-pattern; Surrounding material cooked & distorted; Burn-back and undercut issues
* Too Cold - Globs of metal or a very small bead, weld mounded up convex; not a continuous weld; Weak arc, hard to keep it lit; worm-holes
* Too Fast - Poor penetration; very narrow; might be discontinuous
* Too Slow - Overly penetrated; bead rather wide; surrounding metal cooked; worm-holes; might blow right through the work
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