Tools/mig/induction: Difference between revisions

imported>Stever
imported>Stever
(→‎MIG Welder induction - Level 1: random improvements)
Line 45:
** Power cuts off as soon as the trigger is released
** NO RINGS, NO WATCHES!!
** The welder plugs into a 16A socket, there is onea available16A bytrailing socket on the pillar, it's fed from the bandsaw power point
** If the bandsaw is used at the same time it may trip the breaker
** Use only suitably rated industrial extension leads, they're in the desk drawer B1B
Line 77:
*** Power source
*** Wire feed mechanism
** Torch
*** Shroud
**** Annoying "thread"
*** Tip
**** Screwed in barely more than hand-tight
*** Trigger
** Gas bottle
Line 100 ⟶ 101:
** Setting wire thickness and plate thickness
* Proper position of self and torch, direction of motion
** Suitable angles to work at (10-20 degrees ideally, absolutely less than 45 degrees)
** Push welding - Normal, safe option
** Pull welding - bigger bead, better penetration, lots of grind and risk of inclusion
** Vertical and overhead welds are things that can happen, but not covered at level-1
* Correct distance (10mm is good, anything from 5mm - 20mm is probably going to work if you give sMIG time to learn)
* Correct distance
* Trimming the exposed wire to a suitable length if it's over-long or balled up
* Proper posture for welding
Line 110 ⟶ 112:
** Chairs if they help
** Being comfortable and able to move without stretching is critical for good welds
** Resting your other hand on something to use as a guide
* How the pool forms (Only cover dip transfer)
* Taking the pool "for a walk"
* Keeping the wire aimed at the nose of the pool
** Further towards the tip of the pool = fast move, thinner bead, less penetration
** Further towards the back of the pool = slower movement, wide bead, deep penetration
** This is your primary method of regulating the travel speed, change you aim point and the rate the bead moves across the work will change
* Moving patterns, circles, arc, steady, but not too fast or you'll fool the sMIG feature
* You may need to adjust the shade of your mask to get a clear view
Line 141 ⟶ 148:
* Do NOT tack work to the table
* Tacking to limit distortion, you are GOING to get distortion
** Straight, back-tacktrack and half-split tack welding
* Root-weld and multi-pass welding on thick material
[Demonstration and practice till successful]
Line 157 ⟶ 164:
[Demonstration and practice till successful]
|| Second most common weld type
|-
| Pool Welds ||
* Good for joining things that are meant to be bolted in
* Cleaning up the surfaces
* Starting from the centre on a small one to ensure fusion to base plate
* Starting from edge on large pools and may not need to fill it in compeltelycompletely
* Care with thick base plates as heat dissipation may cause cold-shuts
* Demonstrate if there's time
|| Fixing wheels and fittings onto things
|-
| Lap joint ||
Line 164 ⟶ 180:
** Extra care if the sheet is thin to watch for balling up
* Alternating stitch welds to control distortion
* Demonstrate only if plenty of time and inductee is keen to try
|| Next joint type
|-
| Pool Welds ||
* Good for joining things that are meant to be bolted in
* Cleaning up the surfaces
* Starting from the centre on a small one to ensure fusion to base plate
* Starting from edge on large pools and may not need to fill it in compeltely
* Care with thick base plates as heat dissipation may cause cold-shuts
|| Fixing wheels and fittings onto things
|-
| Shutting down and cleaning up ||
Anonymous user