Tools/mig/induction: Difference between revisions

update for new welder
imported>Stever
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imported>Stever
(update for new welder)
Line 45:
** Power cuts off as soon as the trigger is released
** NO RINGS, NO WATCHES!!
** The welder plugs into a 16A socket, there is one available by the bandsaw
** If the bandsaw is used at the same time it may trip the breaker
** Use only suitably rated industrial extension leads, they're in the desk drawer B1B
** Extension leads are a trip hazard, warn people
** If something does go wrong, shut off power before anything else
|| Using the equipment without harming self or others
Line 50 ⟶ 54:
| Preparing to weld ||
* Check metals are suitable
** Mild steel only at level 1
** Beware of galvanised steel
** Beware of lead-bearing and copper-bearing paints
Line 85 ⟶ 89:
** Gas Flow
** Wire Feed
** More complex controls are available at level-2
** Power
** Don't worry about timer mode, it's not very useful and just make sure it's turned off
 
Wire type, liner and torch can be changed, but not covered at induction level-1
Line 93 ⟶ 96:
| How to actually execute a weld ||
* Normal welder settings
** Gas at 8L/min will work for allmost normalsituations but maybe up to 12L/min when very welding modesthick materials
** Navigating the menus and selecting SmartMIG mode
** Timer off unless you know you need it
** Setting wire thickness and plate thickness
** Reasonable starting settings for 0.6mm Mild Steel wire
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Metal Thickness !! Power Setting !! Wire feed rate !! Note
|-
| <1mm || 1 || 2 || Very difficult, try TIG instead
|-
| 1mm || 2 || 3 ||
|-
| 2-3mm || 4 || 4-5 ||
|-
| 5mm || 6 || 8 ||
|-
| >5mm || 6 || 9 || Not recommended! Probably won't work
|}
* Proper position of self and torch, direction of motion
** Push welding - Normal, safe option
** Pull welding - bigger bead, better penetration, lots of grind and risk of inclusion
** Vertical and overhead welds are things that can happen, but not covered at level-1
* Correct distance
* Trimming the exposed wire to a suitable length if it's over-long or balled up
Line 121 ⟶ 110:
** Chairs if they help
** Being comfortable and able to move without stretching is critical for good welds
* How the pool forms (Only cover dip transfer)
* Dip transfer, globular transfer, spray transfer
* Taking the pool "for a walk"
* Moving patterns, circles, arc, steady, but not too fast or you'll fool the sMIG feature
* Proper sound "Frying Bacon"
* You may need to adjust the shade of your mask to get a clear view
** Each shade number upwards cuts the light you see in half
Line 133 ⟶ 120:
| Problems ||
[Deliberately set up and demonstrate each of these faults]
* ErraticStabbing weld,and globularpoor transferpenetration - too littlefar wireaway feedfrom work
* Weld sticks to tip - too close
* Stabbing and poor penetration - too much wire feed or too far away from work
* Bead sitting on surface - too fast or too little power
* Weld flat and spatteredOver-penetration - too muchslow power
* blowingBlowing holes in material - MUCH too much powerslow
* over-penetration - too slow or too much power
* blowing holes in material - MUCH too much power
* Lots of sparks and brown/porous weld - not enough gas or too far away
* Arc won't strike - Ground clamp not connected
* Weld moves around erratically - too much gas or influence from holding magnets
* Weld sticks to tip - too close
* "stabbing" arc and long intervals between dips - too far away
|| Recognizing faults and knowing how to fix them
|-
Line 163 ⟶ 147:
| Fillet joints ||
* Don't need to grind, but parts need to be clean
* Good fit-up essentialimportant, will makes things much easier for you
* Proper torch position and angles
** Push angle a little steeper than normal
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|-
| Shutting down and cleaning up ||
* MIG welds usuallysometimes require grinding back with an angle grinder to make them neat
** Wire brush if you don't care about cosmetics
** Flap discs will tidy up welds that are good to start with
** Grinding discs will remove messy welds quickly
* Shutting off and purging the gas before un-hooking the couplings
* When you're done shut off the power to the welder and putting the leads away
* Sweeping up and putting everything back where it belongs
* Working out your total weld length and paying for it
Line 204 ⟶ 188:
* This has only been an extremely brief over-view of MIG welding
* Do not expect your joints to be structurally sound or pretty until you have practiced
* The sMIG feature is providing you a LOT of help on this welder, if you switch to a welder without sMIG you may find things a lot harder
* If you want to weld aluminium or magnesium alloys, Stainless Steel, Brazing or other techniques then you can look at [[Tools/TIG/induction#level2|TIG level 2]] or [[tools/mig/induction#level2|MIG level-2]] inductions although it's not compulsory to do level-2 inductions if you've already done the relevant level-1 inductions and if you think you can manage these techniques without further help
* If you want further tuition then some members of rLab are willing to provide this, but they may charge for it.
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Level 2 induction should cover more advanced uses, there will be a charge for level-2 induction to cover the increased cost of materials and trainer time associated with these more complex uses
 
* Going into Manual mode on the welder and suitable settings to use
* Other welding modes - Globular and Spray transfer and the requirements for them
* Problems
** Set up and demonstrate each of these
*** Erratic weld, globular transfer - too little wire feed
*** Stabbing and poor penetration - too muchfar wireaway feedfrom work or too farmuch awaywire from workfeed
*** Bead sitting on surface - too fast or too little voltage
*** Weld flat and spattered - too much voltage
*** over-penetration - too slow or too much powervoltage
*** blowing holes in material - MUCH too much voltage
*** Lots of sparks and brown/porous weld - not enough gas or too far away
* Working with thin (1mm) and thick (5mm) materials
* Welding mild steel in position 3
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