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* Machine strikes an arc between the work and a consumable wire electrode, melting a pool of metal
** Welding isn't like soldering, welding melts the pieces of metal and allows them to flow together and mix with the filler material. When it re-solidifies it's one continuous piece of metal
* Wire dips in and out, adding metal to the pool
* Gas shields the hot metal from the air
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* Arc-eye hazard to you and people around you
** Using an auto-darkening welding mask
** Checking masks with a strong light source
** Suitable settings on mask (9-11, 12 maybe - start at 10 and adjust)
** Shouting "Eyes" if there are other people around
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** The voltage is low, but you still don't want to touch it
** Mind what you point the torch at
** Power on this welder cuts off as soon as the trigger is released, which is not the case for all welders.
** NO RINGS, NO WATCHES!!
** Users with implanted medical devices should seek doctor's approval before welding, it's not usually a problem, but please do check
** The welder plugs into
*** Use only suitably rated industrial extension leads, they're in the desk drawer B1B▼
*** Extension leads are a trip hazard, warn people▼
▲** Use only suitably rated industrial extension leads, they're in the desk drawer B1B
▲** Extension leads are a trip hazard, warn people
** If something does go wrong, shut off power before anything else
|| Using the equipment without harming self or others
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* Clean up weld area - be aware of burning paint
* Clean area for earth clamp
*
** No bevel on thin materials
** Regular 2/3rds bevel most of the time
**
** Multipass and double sided welding are options
|| Proper preparation is necessary for good welds, cover bevel patterns for other weld types later
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** Resting your other hand on something to use as a guide
* How the pool forms (Only cover dip transfer)
* The pool wants to move, you need to just keep pace with it
* Keeping the wire aimed at the nose of the pool
** Further towards the tip of the pool = fast move, thinner bead, less penetration
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* Arc won't strike - Ground clamp not connected
* Weld moves around erratically - too much gas or influence from holding magnets
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| Butt joints ||
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** Flap discs will tidy up welds that are good to start with
** Grinding discs will remove messy welds quickly
* Shutting off the gas
*
* Sweeping up and putting everything back where it belongs
* Working out your total weld length and paying for it
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| Final thoughts ||
* This has only been an extremely brief over-view of MIG welding
* Do not expect your joints to be structurally sound or pretty until you have
* The sMIG feature is providing you a LOT of help on this welder, if you switch to a welder without sMIG you may find things a lot harder
* If you want to weld aluminium or magnesium alloys, Stainless Steel, Brazing or other techniques then you can look at [[Tools/TIG/induction#level2|TIG level 2]] or [[tools/mig/induction#level2|MIG level-2]] inductions although it's not compulsory to do level-2 inductions if you've already done the relevant level-1 inductions and if you think you can manage these techniques without further help
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|| Closing comments
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<div id="level2"></div>
== MIG Welder induction - Level 2 ==
Level 2 induction should cover more advanced uses
=== Main level 2 induction ===
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*** blowing holes in material - MUCH too much voltage
*** Lots of sparks and brown/porous weld - not enough gas or too far away
* Using tip-dip▼
** The dip is to keep the tip clean, it tends to prevent spatter from sticking to the nozzle▼
** The dip is waxy and has to be applied while the tip is hot so you do a bit of welding first, then dunk the tip into the dip and shake off excess▼
** Only a thin coating is needed and you don't have to reapply too often, every 10-20 minutes of arc time is fine▼
** Spatter can just be rubbed off with a gloves finger as the spatter will not stick▼
* Using anti-spatter spray▼
** The spray is to protect your work if it needs to be very clean and you can't easily clean it other ways▼
** The spray is applied to the work before you start and prevents the spatter from sticking to it. ▼
** You can weld through the sprayed on coating so long as you don't apply it too heavily▼
** But if your welds are structural or otherwise sensitive to contamination, don't use it▼
* Controlling weld distortion
** Metal pulls towards the heat source when it cools and so it pulls towards the weld and in the direction of travel
** You CANNOT prevent distortion, but you can control it.
** Extensive tacking and clamping will help reduce it a bit.
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*** Consider the directions of travel, that can provide a degree of compensation.
*** Subsequent welds on the same joint have diminishing effects on distortion because the other welds restrain it
*** Standard sequence for T-joint (alternating directions on opposite sides) and mitered corners. (
* Working with thin (1mm) and thick (5mm) materials
** For thinner materials heat control is vital, it's easy to heat the work up enough to cause massive distortion
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*** Spray transfer is recommended, although globular transfer might help
* Lap joints of dissimilar thickness and dealing with burn-back issues
▲* Using tip-dip
▲** The dip is to keep the tip clean, it tends to prevent spatter from sticking to the nozzle
▲** The dip is waxy and has to be applied while the tip is hot so you do a bit of welding first, then dunk the tip into the dip and shake off excess
▲** Only a thin coating is needed and you don't have to reapply too often, every 10-20 minutes of arc time is fine
▲** Spatter can just be rubbed off with a gloves finger as the spatter will not stick
▲* Using anti-spatter spray
▲** The spray is to protect your work if it needs to be very clean and you can't easily clean it other ways
▲** The spray is applied to the work before you start and prevents the spatter from sticking to it.
▲** You can weld through the sprayed on coating so long as you don't apply it too heavily
▲** But if your welds are structural or otherwise sensitive to contamination, don't use it
* Welding hardening steels
** Attempting to weld hardened or heat-hardenable steels by conventional approaches will usually result in cracking
** Consider what wire material you want to use, given the strength of joint you need.
*** Aluminium is the very softest wire, but can only be used on aluminium or titanium
*** Bronze is the
*** Stainless steel is harder and stronger but does carry more risk of cracks and needs more care
*** Using a hardenable wire gives the strongest result but has the highest risk of cracking
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*** This can take the form of simply wrapping the work in insulation to slow it's cooling, or using the blowtorch or oven.
*** Cooling times will vary with weld size, for large welds several hours may be needed
** Post-annealing can help if it's done
*** Heating the metal up to annealing point and cooling very slowly can be very effective in relieving stresses in the metal
*** But be aware it may change the bulk properties of the workpeice
** Weld peening can help in difficult situations
* Welding mild steel in position 3
* Changing the gas bottle
* Changing wire, torches and liners, proper setting of wire feed and tension
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Optional modules that can be included in level 2 induction at additional cost to inductee owing to expensive materials needed
* Welding with Aluminium, using suitable gasses. Costs £
* Welding Stainless Steel, using suitable gasses. Costs £
* MIG brazing, which allows joining materials with less heat and distortion, and also works on some materials that can't easily be welded like cast iron and tool steels. Costs £30 extra
* Hard-facing, adding a very hard wear-resistant surface coating to materials using the welder. Costs £30 extra
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