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Tools/metallathe/induction: Difference between revisions
→Level-1 induction: Updates based on practice run with James
imported>Stever |
imported>Stever (→Level-1 induction: Updates based on practice run with James) |
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Line 67:
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|Setting tool height ||
* Locking/Unlocking the tool height adjustment - Adjustments can only be made when unlocked, comparisons only made when locked, setting it using the live-centre in the tailstock
* How accurate this needs to be and effects of getting it wrong.
** Too low - Tool grabs and work rides up
Line 80:
* Use of the through-bore
* Approximate truing and even tightening
* The 3-jaw is not accurately concentric, so don't take workpiece out till you're finished
* Not leaving the key in the chuck!
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Line 87 ⟶ 88:
* Mainslide for fast parallel moves but warn it's easy to slam the tool into something, can be used for turning when absolute parallel motion is vital but usually much easier to use top-slide.
* Cross slide for perpendicular moves, show how the dial works and how to zero it and mention that's it's calibrated for DIAMETER and not radius
* Top slide for small controlled reasonably parallel moves up to 100mm long, describe how it can be used to cut tapers and how to re-set it to parallel. Don't cover details of taper-turning, that's level 2 induction.
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How to move the tool around!
Line 108 ⟶ 109:
|Facing off ||
* Crude positioning using the main slide, then actual job done on the cross and top slides
* Lathe mustn't be stopped with the tool in the work
* Show how to touch on then zero dials and advance suitable amounts, what is a suitable amount?
* Remembering to compensate for backlash in all 3 slides
* Smooth even movement using 2 hands on the slides.
* Cover listening to the tool and the machine, grinding noises or audible loading of motor are seriously bad
* Wind in to just past the centre and then out again
* Cover going slower near the centre and what it means if there's a nub left or the tool tries to ride up (tool height wrongly set).
* Cover warning signs of very bad chip form(all materials) and colour(steels)
** Discrete small chips with a slight yellow colour are best, silver is fine, blue is too hot for HSS.
** Long ribbon swarf although not ideal is acceptable, very small chips, dust, or "vanishing" chips are rubbing and NOT OK.
* What a nub means and what the shape of it tells you
* Roughing passes and a finish pass.
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Line 126 ⟶ 131:
* Reasonable depth of cut for roughing.
* Accurately stopping at the same place on multiple passes.
* Coming to an accurate diameter and depth of shoulder
* Limitation on doing long cuts (can't do them at this induction level) or working on small diameter workpeices (need for much shallower cuts and care over tool forces)
* Finish pass and cleaning up the shoulder.
Line 140 ⟶ 146:
* Selecting suitable speeds using the table on the wall (2 flutes so 50%).
** Using centre-drills to start the hole.
* Maximum drilling depths
* Coolant is non-corrosive and doesn't need to be wiped off after
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Using a drill safely and to the target depth
Line 150 ⟶ 157:
| Parting off ||
* Using the HSS parting blade only at this level
* Setting tool stick-out, cover maximum parting depth based on the tools protrusion and absolute max (20mm depth of cut), Checking tool height
* The need to ensure very accurate perpendicular tool positioning and precise and very even movement.
* Parting should be done at less than 35% spindle speed compared to other cuts and why that is
* Use of copious cutting lubricant and frequently reapplied or ideally the flood coolant.
* Riding the boundary between slip-start and continuous cutting
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Ideally people should be able to do this to use the lathe properly but induction level-1 shouldn't cover grooving or use of carbide
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