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Tools/metallathe/induction: Difference between revisions
→Level 2 Induction
imported>Stever No edit summary |
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Next step up on materials
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|Advanced work-holding using 3-jaw
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* How to change the jaws, winding them out to release, maintaining number order, getting new ones engaged in proper sequence.
* Using it to grip inwards on the regular jaws, gripping outwards on thick-walled tubes/rings using alternate jaws, gripping inwards on large objects using alternate jaws.
* Using internal supports for delicate materials, warn that the small steps on jaws grip less strongly and will require smaller depth-of-cut for roughing.
* Using dial gauge and shims to accurately align parts in the 3-jaw.
* Continue to emphasise that only the minimum possible protrusion from the chuck should be used.
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Not covering gripping large/thin-walled/long things that will require steadys until intermediate
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|Switching between 3-jaw and collet chucks and when to use each
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* Use the bed protector at all times.
* Toecap boots a good idea when changing chucks.
* How the camlocks work and who to call if they're out of spec, even tightening, alignment marks, where the chucks are kept.
* Keeping the nose and taper spotlessly clean.
* How the 3-jaw is quick and easy but doesn't hold concentrically, how the collet chuck does but only grips smaller objects. Collet chuck is preferred for materials that it can hold.
* Making sure Lathe is left with 3-jaw fitted
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These 2 cover everything that's needed for beginner training
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|Using the collet chuck
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* Changing the collet and respecting the keyway, tightening up evenly and remembering to take the key out.
* No speed limit on this chuck but can hold round or hex bar only.
* Holds concentricity accurately and work can be removed and replaced repeatedly.
* Grips tighter than the 3-jaw on the same material but can also use internal supports for delicate objects, but the minimum grip depth must be respected.
* The 3-jaw must be put back in when you're done
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Just general use like the 3-jaw
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|Using the Tailstock
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* Live and dead centres, when to use each & speed limits.
* Dead centres must be lubricated, live centres should not be
* Drilling centers and using them to steady workpieces.
* Making sure of clearances around the tools and slides when using the tailstock.
* Use of tailstock allows turning of parts length to up 10x diameter.
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Expands the range of objects that can be worked
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▲Making sure Lathe is left with 3-jaw fitted 3-jaw chuck with it's jaws set in inward-gripping mode and correctly balanced must always be left in the lathe when after you're done So we don't need to train induction-only users in chuck changing
Using taps and Dies Taps - semi-profile and full profile, taper-second-plug types, correct drill sizes, holding in the wrench, using the dead-centre to steady and align, proper lubricant using the gelled or liquid CT-90, chip-breaking pattern on use (1 in, 1/2 out), Care to avoid cross-threading, feeling for proper depth on blind holes, caution about brittleness - your workpeice is lost if you break a tap, cleaning off when done.
Dies - the flush and taper sides, using closed and split dies and the advantages of each, correct rod sizes, holding in the wrench and adjusting split dies. Being even more careful about proper alignment, hard to start sometimes. Holding in the tailstock holder, proper lubrication, chip breaking, cleaning
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