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Tools/metallathe/induction: Difference between revisions
→Level-1 induction
imported>Stever |
imported>Stever |
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|| People need to be able to choose the right material for their project, other materials to be covered in Level 2+ Inductions
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| Selecting suitable speeds || Using the chart above the Lathe. It's OK to start out going slower than the chart suggests to give yourself more time to react as you learn and work up to the full speeds listed || Just the chart, calculations and modifications for various operations are for level 2 inductions▼
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|Mounting the tools ||
Line 76 ⟶ 74:
We'll get a lot of broken tools if this isn't done right
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|Mounting Workpeices ||
* Inwards gripping only using the 3-jaw chuck (Outwards and Jaw-change for level-2)
* Smallest amount possible exposed, maximum of 3-5 diameters, large/Long/Delicate pieces can't be held at this level of induction
* Use of the through-bore
* Approximate truing and even tightening
* Not leaving the key in the chuck!
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Holding the work securely but only on a basic level for induction.
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|The 3 slides ||
* Mainslide for fast parallel moves but warn it's easy to slam the tool into something, can be used for turning when absolute parallel motion is vital but usually much easier to use top-slide.
* Cross slide for perpendicular moves, show how the dial works and how to zero it and mention that's it's calibrated for DIAMETER and not radius
* Top slide for small controlled reasonably parallel moves, describe how it can be used to cut tapers and how to re-set it to parallel. Don't cover details of taper-turning, that's level 2 induction.
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How to move the tool around!
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|The Lamp ||
* Main light doesn't work but if it gets fixed it will give non-stroboscopic light
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Getting a clear view, and not being fooled by strobe effect
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▲| Selecting suitable speeds || Using the chart above the Lathe. It's OK to start out going slower than the chart suggests to give yourself more time to react as you learn and work up to the full speeds listed || Just the chart, calculations and modifications for various operations are for level 2 inductions
|Make sure feeds are off || Making sure that the powerfeed and screwcutting feed are disengaged before starting up the Lathe. The two levers that control then and what the disengaged position is. || Don't cover using the powerfeeds for induction level 1 since that will require also covering how to select suitable feedrates or we risk someone just using whatever the machine is currently set for with possibly harmful results.▼
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|Make sure feeds are off ||
* Making sure that the powerfeed and screwcutting feed are disengaged before starting up the Lathe.
* The two levers that control then and what the disengaged position is.
* Warn how fast things can go wrong if they're left engaged!
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|Facing off ||
* Crude positioning using the main slide, then actual job done on the cross and top slides
* Show how to touch on then zero dials and advance suitable amounts, what is a suitable amount?
* Smooth even movement using 2 hands on the slides.
* Cover listening to the tool and the machine, grinding noises or audible loading of motor are seriously bad
* Cover going slower near the centre and what it means if there's a nub left or the tool tries to ride up (tool height wrongly set).
* Cover warning signs of very bad chip form(all materials) and colour(steels)
** Discrete small chips with a slight yellow colour are best, silver is fine, blue is too hot for HSS.
** Long ribbon swarf although not ideal is acceptable, very small chips, dust, or "vanishing" chips are rubbing and NOT OK.
* Roughing passes and a finish pass.
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Covering the very basics of Facing off
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|Parallel Turning ||
* Picking the correct slide for the length of cut, positioning correctly at start of cut.
* Touching on and zeroing dials.
* Smooth even progress using 2 hands on wheel.
* What good chip form looks like.
* Reasonable depth of cut for roughing.
* Accurately stopping at the same place on multiple passes.
* Limitation on doing long cuts (can't do them at this induction level) or working on small diameter workpeices (need for much shallower cuts and care over tool forces)
* Finish pass and cleaning up the shoulder.
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Basics of Parallel turning
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|Drilling ||
* Mounting the drill chucks in the tail-stock.
* Maximum drilling capacities for each chuck.
* Selecting suitable drills for the material.
* How to move and position the tail-stock
** How to lock it off
** How to advance the quill.
* Selecting suitable speeds using the table on the wall (2 flutes so 50%).
** Using centre-drills to start the hole.
* Maximum drilling depths.
** Using the dial on the tail-stock to pick a depth
** Depth from tip and depth from shoulder drilling.
** Watching out for thermal issues.
** "Pecking" drill pattern.
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Using a drill safely and to the target depth
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| Parting off || Using the HSS parting blade, the need to ensure very accurate perpendicular tool positioning and precise and very even movement. Parting should be done at less than 35% spindle speed compared to other cuts and with the use of copious cutting lubricant and frequently reapplied or ideally the flood coolant. Cover maximum parting depth based on the tools protrusion. || Ideally people should be able to do this to use the lathe properly but induction shouldn't cover grooving
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