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Tools/metallathe/induction: Difference between revisions
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<div id="level1"></div>
== Level-1 induction ==
This is the most basic induction and provides only the absolute essentials.
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| Proper Clothing ||
* 'Workshop appropriate' clothing - you're going to get dirty and probably splashed with coolant etc
* Sleeves tied back, no loose or flowing clothing, long hair tied back, risks of rings, proper footware. ▼
* No open-toed shoes or sandals.
▲* Sleeves tied back, no loose or flowing clothing, long hair tied back, risks of rings
* Mention the catch points of the chuck and the 2 powerfeed screws.
* Mention the main slide handle can catch things, mention loose clothing can catch the handwheels and upset work.
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* Approximate truing and even tightening
* The 3-jaw is not accurately concentric, so don't take workpiece out till you're finished
* '''Not leaving the key in the chuck!''' This is the most common source of accidents on lathes and can cause serious injury
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Holding the work securely but only on a basic level for induction.
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|The Lamp ||
* Positioning the mag-base lamp properly, taking care that it won't foul over the full range of motion intended. Beware of stroboscopic effects.
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Getting a clear view, and not being fooled by strobe effect
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|Use of cutting fluids and other lubricants
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* Using the 3 types of cutting lubricant, the
** Use of proper lubricants for aluminium (the CT-90 is "Universal" and can be used)
** Using the flood coolant system
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|Tool Inspection
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* Checking the tools with
* Recognising wear and polishing on HSS tools and when it's OK and when the edge had been lost.
* Looking for wear or more likely chipping on brazed carbide, the procedure for getting them re-ground if they need it.
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* Using reamers
* Turning between centres
** Why you might do it
*** Improved concentrically and repeatability
*** Holding awkward shapes
*** Reusing centers on existing parts or that someone else cut
**** Recutting a center if you need to (toolpost support trick)
** Setting up a center and a catch plate
*** Installing a center in the headstock
*** Installing the catch plate
*** Picking a suitable dog size, setting it up so it won't slap
**** Caution about over or undertightening
*** Alternatively making a center on stock held in a 3/4 jaw chuck
*** Live or Dead center at the tailstock?
*** Might require the use of steadies if the part is long
** Turning between centers
*** The dog and catch plate will cause imbalance so watch speed
*** Parts may be very long so watch out for flex
**** Use support if needed
**** Take shallow cuts
** Tailstock offset turning
*** Regular centers only for the smallest of offsets
*** Using ball-bearing centers▼
**** Part distortion if used too much
▲*** Using ball-bearing centers for larger offsets
*** Resetting the tailstock alignment when done, high precision required
* Making and shaping brazed carbide cutters
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| Checking oil tanks and draining/refilling || Location of the sight-glasses, fill point and drain points for all 3 oil tanks, which grade of oil goes in which and how much. Main tank takes 1L of ISO68, screwcutting gearbox takes 0.5L of ISO220, Apron takes 0.3L of ISO68. Disposal of used oil ( How do we handle this? )
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| Oiling points || Applying oil using the
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| Oiling the changegears || Opening the case, oiling them, do not bypass safety to run the gears while oiling
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