73
edits
imported>Stever |
m (1 revision imported) |
||
(15 intermediate revisions by 3 users not shown) | |||
Line 4:
<div id="level1"></div>
== Level-1 induction ==
This is the most basic induction and provides only the absolute essentials.
{| class="wikitable"
Line 11:
|-
| Proper Clothing ||
* 'Workshop appropriate' clothing - you're going to get dirty and probably splashed with coolant etc
* Sleeves tied back, no loose or flowing clothing, long hair tied back, risks of rings, proper footware. ▼
* No open-toed shoes or sandals.
▲* Sleeves tied back, no loose or flowing clothing, long hair tied back, risks of rings
* Mention the catch points of the chuck and the 2 powerfeed screws.
* Mention the main slide handle can catch things, mention loose clothing can catch the handwheels and upset work.
Line 49 ⟶ 51:
* Ceramics & Glass
* GRP & Carbon Fibre
* Hardened & chromed Steels (but see level 3)
|}
Line 81 ⟶ 83:
* Approximate truing and even tightening
* The 3-jaw is not accurately concentric, so don't take workpiece out till you're finished
* '''Not leaving the key in the chuck!''' This is the most common source of accidents on lathes and can cause serious injury
||
Holding the work securely but only on a basic level for induction.
Line 94 ⟶ 96:
|The Lamp ||
* Positioning the mag-base lamp properly, taking care that it won't foul over the full range of motion intended. Beware of stroboscopic effects.
||
Getting a clear view, and not being fooled by strobe effect
Line 190 ⟶ 191:
|Use of cutting fluids and other lubricants
||
* Using the 3 types of cutting lubricant, the
** Use of proper lubricants for aluminium (the CT-90 is "Universal" and can be used)
** Using the flood coolant system
*** Checking coolant level and topping up if needed, the warning light only reads accurately on start-up
*** How it affects cutting speeds
*** Avoiding spray
*** Cleaning machine after use.
||
Proper cooling extends tool life, allows deeper faster cuts and helps keep machine clean
Line 268 ⟶ 273:
|Tool Inspection
||
* Checking the tools with
* Recognising wear and polishing on HSS tools and when it's OK and when the edge had been lost.
* Looking for wear or more likely chipping on brazed carbide, the procedure for getting them re-ground if they need it.
Line 512 ⟶ 517:
* Very large workpeices, faceplates and speed limits
* Using fixed and travelling steadies for very long workpeices
** Why to use steadies
** How the 2 types grip and stabilise your work
** When to use Fixed Steady
*** Choosing location, have to make a flat to rest on
*** Installing
*** Tightening and lubricating
*** Keeping chips out with shields
** When to use travelling steady
*** Positioning
**** Ahead - Stable but risk of transferring out-of-roundness and wearing brass blocks
**** Co-incident - Strongest but hard to do and risk of chips getting dragged in
**** Trailing - Roundness is stable but risk of longitudinal oscillations forming
** Burning in the brass blocks
*** It's going to happen anyway, might as well make it happen when and where you choose
* Using the dial indicator to maintain position on complex cuts
* Calculating feeds&speeds for other materials not on the standard table
Line 559 ⟶ 578:
*** Checking the workpeice hardness using the ultrasonic tester
*** Hard material turning is normally done without coolant
*** Swarf will come off HOT, depending on circumstances maybe up to red-hot
*** Rigidity of set-up it vital, pay special attention to stick-out and tool position relative to the slides
**** Lock any slides you're not using
*** Examine the toolholder carefully when fitting a hard-turning insert, all parts must be in excellent condition or be replaced.
*** Hard turning requires relatively high spindle powers, be sure not to overload and stall the lathe
Line 573 ⟶ 594:
**** CBN Inserts are expensive and delicate, they must be treated with extreme care
**** Maximum hardness ranges up to about 65HRC but values above 55HRC will cause rapid tool wear
**** Swarf will come off '''
**** Breaking a chip is unlikely, expect birds-nesting
**** Depths of cut and feed rates should be low, ideally <0.1mm
**** Surface speeds around
*** Diamond tooling exists for use in hard non-ferrous materials and highly abrasive materials
**** Diamond tooling comes in PolyCrystaline Diamond (PCD) which is very expensive - more so than CBN, and MonoCrystaline Diamond (MCD) which is eye-wateringly expensive.
**** PCD is very, very hard, MCD is the hardest tooling material known to exist.
**** Diamond tooling cannot be used on ferrous metals as the carbon from the diamond will dissolve into the iron
**** Diamond can be used to turn exotic materials such as aluminium superalloys, nickle superalloys, precious metals, tungsten carbide and carbon fiber
**** Maximum work hardness for diamond tools can go as high as 70HRC although wear increases above 60HRC
**** Cutting speeds can range up as high as 1000m/min or as low as 10m/min depending on the hardness of the work
**** Depths of cut and feed rates should be low, ideally <0.1mm, however the very high surface speeds used with PCD tooling will still result in rapid material removal rates
* Workholding using all chuck types and recovering concentricity
* Using reamers
* Turning between centres
** Why you might do it
*** Improved concentrically and repeatability
*** Holding awkward shapes
*** Reusing centers on existing parts or that someone else cut
**** Recutting a center if you need to (toolpost support trick)
** Setting up a center and a catch plate
*** Installing a center in the headstock
*** Installing the catch plate
*** Picking a suitable dog size, setting it up so it won't slap
**** Caution about over or undertightening
*** Alternatively making a center on stock held in a 3/4 jaw chuck
*** Live or Dead center at the tailstock?
*** Might require the use of steadies if the part is long
** Turning between centers
*** The dog and catch plate will cause imbalance so watch speed
*** Parts may be very long so watch out for flex
**** Use support if needed
**** Take shallow cuts
** Tailstock offset turning
*** Regular centers only for the smallest of offsets
*** Using ball-bearing centers▼
**** Part distortion if used too much
▲*** Using ball-bearing centers for larger offsets
*** Resetting the tailstock alignment when done, high precision required
* Making and shaping brazed carbide cutters
== Maintenance ==
Line 606 ⟶ 651:
| Checking oil tanks and draining/refilling || Location of the sight-glasses, fill point and drain points for all 3 oil tanks, which grade of oil goes in which and how much. Main tank takes 1L of ISO68, screwcutting gearbox takes 0.5L of ISO220, Apron takes 0.3L of ISO68. Disposal of used oil ( How do we handle this? )
|-
| Oiling points || Applying oil using the
|-
| Oiling the changegears || Opening the case, oiling them, do not bypass safety to run the gears while oiling
|