Tools/laser
Pirahna 1060 Laser Cutter
Owing to it's dangerous nature, delicate nature, or expense, this tool requires that you be inducted on it's proper handling before use. |
Introduction
The laser cutter is one of our most heavily used tools, it's a 90W CO2 laser system with a 1000mm x 600mm bed. At the moment we limit the power output of the laser to 68W in order to extend the life of the laser tube as that's the most expensive consumable part of the laser system. At this setting it's able to cut a variety of materials including Acrylic (up to 15mm thick), MDF (up to 10mm thick) and Plywood (up to 12mm thick), pine board (up to 15mm thick) and can be used to make a huge range of items from light fittings to jigsaws. Owing to it's expense and delicacy the laser cutter requires members to have an induction before they can use it.
Current Status
Date | Status | Comment |
---|---|---|
1st June 2021 | Fully functional | HT supply relay and power switch replaced. |
Suitable Materials for Laser use
This is a list of suitable materials for use with the laser, please note that the maximum cut thickness is only a very approximate guide as materials vary greatly and you may not be able to get anywhere near these figures with your material. This list is not exhaustive and if your material isn't listed here then please ask on the mailing list for advice. Generally materials that are specifically rated for use with laser cutters will tend to be made from materials that cut more easily and make less mess which tends to mean the deeper cuts are possible. The power limit on the laser can be removed enabling 100% power, but as this drastically shortens the life of the tube it will only be done in exceptional circumstances where no other technique can work. If you think your job qualifies speak to any of the laser maintainers about it.
Material | Cut? | Etch? | Max cut thickness | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|
Plastics | ||||
Acrylic (PMMA,Plexiglass) | Yes | Yes | 15mm | Cuts very cleanly, leaves white powder when etching |
PET | Yes | Yes(ish) | 8mm | Thin PET cuts fast and easily, thicker material tends to melt and brown a little at the edges, etching may leave melted residue |
Polystyrene | Yes | Yes | 8mm | Cuts OK but does tend to leave sticky residue on the bed that will require extensive cleaning |
Polypropylene | Yes(ish) | Yes | Unknown | Not recommended, very prone to heat-distortion during cutting. Leaves a very sticky and hard to clean residue around the cut and on the nozzle |
Polycarbonate | No | No | N/A | Polycarbonate is not allowed in the laser owing to terrible cuts and high fire risk |
PTFE (Teflon) | No | No | N/A | Not allowed, causes damage to laser |
PVC (Vinyl, Pleather, Fake Leather, Foamex) | No | No | N/A | Not allowed, causes damage to laser |
Timber and other Wood Products | ||||
Plywood | Yes | Yes | 12mm | Older/reclaimed plywood might produce toxic fumes. Laser-rated ply cuts cleanest and deepest |
MDF | Yes | Yes | 10mm | Older/reclaimed MDF might produce toxic fumes. Some MDF's are treated with fire retardant and MUST NOT be used with laser |
Pine board | Yes | Yes | 18mm | Cut depth varies enormously with timber type/moisture/treatments so 18mm is a max you may never get. |
Mahogany | Yes(ish) | Yes | 6mm | Very prone to charring and hard to cut, but engraves very nicely |
Oak | Yes | Yes | 8mm | Cutting is difficult and unreliable on thicker pieces but etching gives excellent results |
Cardboard | Yes | Difficult | N/A | High fire risk, must be cut quite quickly and watched constantly |
Paper | Yes | No | N/A | Cuts extremely fast, etching will usually just put holes through it. |
Metals | ||||
Steel | No | Maybe | N/A | Some steels can just barely be surface etched or very lightly engraved. Cutting is impossible |
Stainless Steel | No | Sort of | N/A | The surface of stainless can be marked lightly but cannot be etched, engraved or cut. |
Aluminium | No | Sort of | N/A | Anodised surfaces can be marked, the metal can't be cut or etched at all |
Other Metals | No | No | N/A | Copper and Brass cannot be affected at all by the laser and may harm the laser cutter |
Others | ||||
Rubber | Yes | Yes | Unknown | There are specific laser-rated types of rubber than can be cut and etched |
Leather | Sort of | Yes | Unknown | Patterns including stitch patterns are easily etched, cutting is possible but tends to give very burnt edges and terrible smell |
Linoleum | Yes | Yes | Unknown | Genuine Linoleum can be cut and etched to make printing blocks, modern synthetic lino is made of PVC and MUST NOT be used. |
Cotton | Yes | Yes | N/A | Cut at high power and very high speed to avoid burning |
Polyester/Nylon cloth | Yes | No | N/A | Cut at the highest speed possible, will melt the edges and fuse them |
Granite | No | Yes | N/A | Etching works OK at fairly low speeds, Cutting is impossible. Thorough cleaning of laser afterwards is required to remove abrasive dusts |
Glass | No | Yes | N/A | Glass can be etched however care is needed as heat build-up tends to result in the glass shattering, thinner glass is most vulnerable to this. Thorough cleaning of laser afterwards is required to remove abrasive dusts |
Laser Troubleshooting
Here's some common issues that crop up on the laser and how to fix them
Symptom | Cause | Fix |
---|---|---|
Bed won't rise high enough | The head has been knocked and moved upwards, preventing it from focusing properly on thin sheets | To fix it home the laser both in the XY and the Z modes, place the focus block under the head while at the home position, and then turn the knurled ring on the red tube to release the head, make sure to be holding it so it doesn't drop out!
Set the head height so that it's just touching the focus block while in that position and tighten up the knurled ring again, you'll now have the head in the proper focus position and can cut using normal procedure. |
"Not Enough Extend Space" error on the laser panel | You have the workpiece too close to one of the limits of the laser and the head does not have enough space to move around and complete the job. This usually happens with etching because the machine needs a short "run-up" on either side of the etched area to get to proper speed before the etching begins. | Move your workpiece a few millimeters away from the edge of the machine and re-run the job. |
"Frame Slop" error displayed |
The job is asking the machine to move outside it's bed area because: The Origin position is not set right The Origin mode is not set to "current position" The job is too large for the machine |
Set the origin mode (next to origin position) to "Current Position" Maximum job size is 999mm x 599mm or a bit less for job involving etching Be aware that when you clear the error on the control panel the head may crash into the limits, be ready on the E-stop button |
"Water Error" is displayed |
No access card in card reader Lid not closed Water chiller not running Low water level |
Put your card in the reader, if you're inducted then access will be granted Close the lid..... Turn on the chiller..... Ask on the mailing list for help |
Planned Upgrades
Parts and upgrades that are planned/Budgeted/Purchased for in the near future
- Add dynamic auto-focus system apparently supported by controller
- Create long-focus lens system for deeper cutting
- Add X and Y axis max limit sensors
Pirahna 1060 Caretakers
Inductions
The following people are able to provide inductions on the Pirahna 1060
Name/Contact | Notes |
---|---|
Tony-S | |
James-M | |
Steve-R |
Maintainers
These are the people who look after and repair the Pirahna 1060, they're the ones to contact if there's any problems with it
Name | Notes |
---|---|
Steve-R | |
James-M | |
Rupert-E |
Recent Changes
If you make any non-trivial changes to the Pirahna 1060 or perform maintenance please note it here, delete records older than 1 yr
- Laser intermittently not firing or stopping mid job. Switch 3 on side replaced, and HT PSU enable relay found to have bad contacts. so replaced, now working normally Ruperte (talk) 14:24, 1 June 2021 (BST)
- Deep clean bead and inside of machine. Re-lube Z-Axis leadscrews. Test water pump for leaks. Jmf (talk) 20:17, 10 April 2021 (BST)
- Fully enable Z-height control functions to allow multi-depth engraving Stever (talk) 14:44, 16 November 2020 (UTC)
- Clean and re-lubricate linear bearings Stever (talk) 10:52, 9 November 2020 (UTC)
- Deep clean, service, change air and water filters, rough re-alignment, replace lens and mirror #1 Stever (talk), Jmf (talk), Rupert & Tony 10:50, 4 November 2020 (UTC)
- Deep clean bed and inside of machine. Re-lube the Z-Axis leadscrews. Jmf (talk) 12:03, 17 October 2020 (BST)
- Replace HV power switch Stever (talk) 18:32, 1 October 2020 (BST)
- Partial Beam re-alignment done, laser functional but full realignment needed soon. Stever (talk) 18:49, 14 June 2020 (UTC)
- Fit complete new air-line system and replace electronics bay fan. Stever (talk) 06:17, 8 June 2020 (UTC)
- Patch air line (temporary fix). Clean water chiller filters, top up water. Change air assist filter. Clean HV PSU and re-adjust current limit. Fit new lens and #3 mirror. Crude re-align. Make new focus block. Stever (talk) 15:07, 11 April 2020 (UTC)
- New focus block made that more accurately reflects the actual focal length. Stever (talk) 17:25, 3 December 2019 (UTC)
Image Gallery
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Pirahna 1060 Laser Cutter/Engraver
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Laser cutting head
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The main wiring bay (not showing the HV power supply)
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Our new laser tube under test
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Cutting our 2020 Xmas cards on the laser