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(→‎Practical Forging: safety and technique for hammering)
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{{inductioninfo}}
 
The [[toolsTools/forge25kW Induction Forge|forgeForge]] getscan upheat tobeyond a maximum of 13501600 ºC, uses flammablehigh powered gaselectronics, has the risk of igniting metals and many other hazards, for that reason an [[Tools/25kW Induction Forge|inductionForge]] is compulsory before using the forge. Induction normally takes about 2 hours, and another 2 hours for the forge to cool down afterwards before it can be put safely away. The forge has a useage charge of £3/hr so you can expect to pay in the region of £10 to cover 2 hours of forge time and materials to use for practice.
 
== Safety ==
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|-
| PPE Required ||
* Goggles are required ATat ALLall TIMEStimes WHILEwhile FORGEforging. ISHot LITscale -can thefly forgeoff WILLthe shootmetal outas flakesyou ofwork red-hot scaleit.
* Welding gloves or heat-tolerant work gloves - dop rods will get hot!
* Anti-vibration gloves if you're doing a lot of forging
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* Clearing the area around the forge of all flammable materials, especially sawdust and the bins
* Be aware of hazards of flammable vapours and solvents, keep well away from the forge
 
* Back of the forge gets hot too, so be aware of what you're backed up against
|| Things that can cause fire
|-
| Dealing with Fire ||
* What types of extinguisher to use on what sort of fire- CO2 or dry powder for electric fires▼
* In case of fire, TURN GAS OFF!
▲* What types of extinguisher to use on what sort of fire
* Using fire extinguishers
** Calling for help, alerting people
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** What types are suitable for what fires
** We cannot extinguish metal fires, use the vermiculite to smother or place on a safe surface
** NEVER use an extinguisher on the forge it's self, it has nothing flammable anyway and risks an explosion
** Fire hazard from quench oil
** How to use an extinguisher
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** Heat slowly to above critical temperature
** Soak till even temperature
** Cool as slowly as possible, either inutilising vermiculite or in the furnace
** Some steels have a thermal "no-go" zone where you can't linger, check the datasheet
** Results in a soft steel that's cold-workable
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* Working a steel too cold - Very hard work and risk of cracking
* Working a steel too hot - Hard to control and risk of crumbling from hot-shortness
* Overly oxidising flames - Lots of scale and risk of decarburization
* Overly reducing flames - Poor heat, Carbon monoxide risk, case-hardening, but unlikely to ever happen in our furnace
|| Knowing the serious errors and how to avoid them
|}
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| Examining and setting up the Forge ||
* Describe the forge and it's parts
* Visual inspection for loose pipes, gascoolant leaks, & electrical faults, loose bricks
 
* How the tunnel can be opened longer for bigger objects
|| How to get the forge set up and ready to fire safely▼
* Never use brick choke and rear door at the same time
* Vacuum out tunnel – clean before use, not after, it'll be too hot after
* Reading the hours counter before you start and noting down the time it shows
▲|| How to get the forge set up and ready to fire safely
|-
| Lighting the Forge ||▼
* Plug it in!
* Checking the gas & air valve positions are closed
* Start the blower
* Cover the dramatic differences in gas and air settings
* Turning on gas at the bottle and burners
* Let a little air into the forge
* Opening the main gas valve and using the lighter to get it lit
* Adjusting the gas and air valves to get a flame the right size and slightly reducing
* Demonstrate high/low, oxidizing/reducing, show what they look like
** Large flames are more stable, small flames may result in burner over-heat, check this often
** Overly oxidizing flames will damage metal and increase the risk of fire.
** Starting up the second burner if you have a need to for a long object
* You can start using the forge right away, you don't need to let it to full heat first
|| Getting it lit without hurting yourself, getting the flame properly set up for forging
|-
▲| LightingPowering the Forge ||
* Plug it in - Both the 3-Phase for the forge & regular plug for the coolant.
* Vent the radiator to remove air from the system.
* Turn on the coolant, followed by the induction forge
 
| Hammering technique ||
* Holding the hammer
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|-
| Shutting down the forge ||
* There should be no cooldown time needed. To be sure, leave coolant on while putting away the anvil - this should be sufficeint time for any residual heat to dissipate.
* Air off – Gas off – Air on ; for fast cool-down leaving the air running to cool the forge if needed
* Re-cover the forge and wheel the forge back to its storage.
* Air off - Gas off with slight delay ; for furnace cooling of metal
* Sweep the area and return any displaced equipment to origional positions
* The forge may stay hot enough to start fires for up to 2 hours
* Marking out the area of "hot things" when leaving
|| Safe shut-down when done
|-
 
| Putting it away ||
* Letting the forge cool down enough before putting it away
** Hand-in-tunnel test
* Don’t try to clean inside the tunnel, put it away dirty
* Watching out for condensation dripping off the gas bottle
* Sweep off anvil
* Put anvil away
* Sweep up scale, it's sharp-edged and irritating, don't leave it around for others
|| Putting everything back for the next person
|-
| Payment and Problems ||
* Read the hours counter and calculate the cost
** Put money into the downstairs honesty box
** Or pay by bank transfer using "<yourname> - Forging fees" as the reference
* If you saw any problems with the forge, contact the maintainers
* If you sawgot any problemsgood photos, changeupload thethem "currentto status"wiki onor thepost wikion pageDiscord!
* If you got any good photos, upload them to wiki or post on mailing list!
|| Keeping people updated on status
|}
Taredhel
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