Tools/bandsaw/induction: Difference between revisions
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* Loose sawdust can be hoovered off |
* Loose sawdust can be hoovered off |
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* Any large lumps should be pried off with a screwdriver, being careful not to dig into the tyre as it's a fairly brittle material |
* Any large lumps should be pried off with a screwdriver, being careful not to dig into the tyre as it's a fairly brittle material |
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* Generally heavy deposits of sawdust can be removed with a wire |
* Generally heavy deposits of sawdust can be removed with a wire brush, but be careful not to work too hard on any one area as it will dig into the tyre |
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* Using a wire wheel in a portable drill can be effective but the wheel must be kept moving AT ALL TIMES or the wire wheel will dig into the tyre, so it's a 2-man job to do it this way. This only works because our tyres are quite hard rubber, other bandsaws with softer tyres will be damaged if you try this! |
* Using a wire wheel in a portable drill can be effective but the wheel must be kept moving AT ALL TIMES or the wire wheel will dig into the tyre, so it's a 2-man job to do it this way. This only works because our tyres are quite hard rubber, other bandsaws with softer tyres will be damaged if you try this! |
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* UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES try to use the bandsaw's own power to rotate wheels while cleaning tyres |
* UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES try to use the bandsaw's own power to rotate wheels while cleaning tyres |
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* Examine the belt carefully for kinks or twists |
* Examine the belt carefully for kinks or twists |
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* Selecting a suitable gear for the new blade, changing pulleys is easier done without the blade in position. |
* Selecting a suitable gear for the new blade, changing pulleys is easier done without the blade in position. |
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* Throwing out the new blade after warning anyone else in the area! |
* Throwing out the new blade after warning anyone else in the area! Use the metal cutting blade this time. |
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** Untwisting the blade by hand is possible but it can sometimes whip out and cut you |
** Untwisting the blade by hand is possible but it can sometimes whip out and cut you |
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* Slide the blade into place, fitting is reverse of removal. |
* Slide the blade into place, fitting is reverse of removal. |
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* Stop the saw and re-fit all bearing guides |
* Stop the saw and re-fit all bearing guides |
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|| Blade will tend to twist if not tracked properly |
|| Blade will tend to twist if not tracked properly |
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⚫ | Blades will tend not to cut accurately against the fence when first fitted so there's a need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade. If it's not set correctly then the blade will tend to push/pull the work towards/away from the fence and give wonky cuts. The blade lead also drifts over time as the blade wears because the wear is seldom perfectly symmetric, so if you notice that the saw is pulling to one side while cutting then the lead probably needs adjusting. |
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| Using sliding metal vice || |
| Using sliding metal vice || |
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* Switching back to ripping blade. |
* Switching back to ripping blade. |
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|| Using the fine blade for detailed work |
|| Using the fine blade for detailed work |
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⚫ | Blades will tend not to cut accurately against the fence when first fitted so there's a need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade. If it's not set correctly then the blade will tend to push/pull the work towards/away from the fence and give wonky cuts. The blade lead also drifts over time as the blade wears because the wear is seldom perfectly symmetric, so if you notice that the saw is pulling to one side while cutting then the lead probably needs adjusting. |
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| Checking and changing oil || |
| Checking and changing oil || |