Tools/bandsaw/induction: Difference between revisions

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|| Checking if the blade is still fit for use

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| ~~Changing~~ the blade ||

| Removing the blade ||

* The bandsaw blade that's normally fitted is intended for course rip cutting in wood, but when the blade is changed it can be used to produce much finer cuts in wood, curved cuts, and cutting metals.

* Blade changing does require basic safety equipment as the blades are razor sharp and can whip around during the procedure so the use of gloves and eye protection is wise.

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** The double-turn procedure for stowing the blades, being sure not to kink the blade.

** Cleaning any areas you couldn't get to with the blade installed, this is a good moment to clean the tyres if needed (see below)

|| Getting the old blade off so maintenance can be done

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** Selecting a new blade according to job

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*** Fine-tooth blade for finish cuts

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*** Thin blades for tighter curves

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*** Metal-rated blades for aluminium/brass/steel/stainless

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** Examine the belt carefully for kinks or twists

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** Selecting a suitable gear for the new blade, changing pulleys is easier done without the blade in position.

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** Throwing out the new blade after warning anyone else in the area!

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*** Untwisting the blade by hand is possible but it can sometimes whip out and cut you

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** Slide the blade into place, fitting is reverse of removal.

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** Reinstall the table alignment pin and aluminium blade guide as soon as possible.

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** Tension the blade lightly to get it stable before making adjustments

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** Spin the blade by hand and adjust the blade tracking to seat it into proper position

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** Bring the blade up to the normal tension for that thickness

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** Set the blade guide bearings

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** Close doors and put the gearbox into the proper gear

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** Tracking and blade lead correction will be needed (see below)

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** Once you are done with this job, the coarse ripping blade must be re-fitted.

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|| ~~different~~ blades are used to get access to the full capacities of the saw

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| Cleaning Tyres ||

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* Post on the maintenance section of the bandsaw's wiki page if you've done this

|| Blade will ride poorly over dirty tyres resulting in bad cuts and shortened blade life.

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|-

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| Checking belt tension ||

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Tension on the drive belt should be checked now and then, especially after changing gear

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* How to unlock the adjustment

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* Examining belt condition, who to tell if there's an issue

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* Choosing suitable gears

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* What proper adjustment feels like

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* Locking it off when done

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|| Belts will stretch with time

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| Fitting a new blade ||

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* Selecting a new blade according to job

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** Fine-tooth blade for finish cuts

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** Thin blades for tighter curves

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** Metal-rated blades for aluminium/brass/steel/stainless

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* Examine the belt carefully for kinks or twists

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* Selecting a suitable gear for the new blade, changing pulleys is easier done without the blade in position.

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* Throwing out the new blade after warning anyone else in the area!

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** Untwisting the blade by hand is possible but it can sometimes whip out and cut you

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* Slide the blade into place, fitting is reverse of removal.

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* Reinstall the table alignment pin and aluminium blade guide as soon as possible.

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* Tension the blade lightly to get it stable before making adjustments

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* Spin the blade by hand and adjust the blade tracking to seat it into proper position

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* Bring the blade up to the normal tension for that thickness

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* Set the blade guide bearings

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* Close doors and put the gearbox into the proper gear

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* Tracking and blade lead correction will be needed (see below)

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* Once you are done with this job, the coarse ripping blade must be re-fitted.

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|| Different blades are used to get access to the full capacities of the saw

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| Checking Blade tracking ||

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| Nulling blade lead ||

Blades will tend not to cut accurately against the fence when first fitted so there's a need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade. If it's not set correctly then the blade will tend to push/pull the work towards/away from the fence and give wonky cuts.

Blades will tend not to cut accurately against the fence when first fitted so there's a need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade. If it's not set correctly then the blade will tend to push/pull the work towards/away from the fence and give wonky cuts. The blade lead also drifts over time as the blade wears because the wear is seldom perfectly symmetric, so if you notice that the saw is pulling to one side while cutting then the lead probably needs adjusting.

* The blade must be properly tracked before doing this as tracking affects blade lead

* Preparing a suitable block of wood with parallel lines on it, block needs to be at least 300mm, MDF is preferred owing to lack of grain.

* Preparing a suitable block of wood with parallel lines on it, block needs to be at least 300mm, MDF is preferred owing to lack of grain so the saw can move through it without anything other than the blade lead controlling the path it takes.

* Move the fence well away

* Cut carefully but quickly along one of the parallel lines stopping when half-way though and being very careful not to move the wood once you stop

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* More risk of blade lead as it's keeping the work up off the table

|| We have this so might as well know how to use it, even if it is superseded

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|-

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| Checking belt tension ||

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Tension on the drive belt should be checked now and then, especially after changing gear