Tools/bandsaw/induction: Difference between revisions
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* Ear protection is sensible for extended use mostly because the dust extraction is very loud |
* Ear protection is sensible for extended use mostly because the dust extraction is very loud |
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* The inbuilt dust extraction is fairly effective, but for extended use, or for wood/material dust known to be an irritant or hazardous, it is a good idea to put the [[Tools/aircleaner|air cleaner]], and wear a respirator or dust mask. |
* The inbuilt dust extraction is fairly effective, but for extended use, or for wood/material dust known to be an irritant or hazardous, it is a good idea to put the [[Tools/aircleaner|air cleaner]], and wear a respirator or dust mask. |
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* When cutting metals the dust extraction system MUST |
* When cutting metals the dust extraction system MUST be shut off because of the risk of sparks setting fire to the vacuum. |
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|| Basic safety information on PPE and dust control |
|| Basic safety information on PPE and dust control |
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| Start-up/Shutdown || |
| Start-up/Shutdown || |
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* Location of main power switch |
* Location of main power switch, mention the stiffness of the off button and the automatic dust extraction |
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* How to use the card reader, the card needs to stay in the reader while you're using the saw |
* How to use the card reader, the card needs to stay in the reader while you're using the saw |
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* Clean the Bandsaw off if it's noticeably dirty and check the dust traps aren't overfilled |
* Clean the Bandsaw off if it's noticeably dirty and check the dust traps aren't overfilled |
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* Some interlocks in the door frame prevent the machine from starting when the doors are open. Therefore, when checking and adjusting the saw setup, it is sensible to begin by opening the doors, as this provides some additional security that the machine won’t start while you are setting it up. |
* Some interlocks in the door frame prevent the machine from starting when the doors are open. Therefore, when checking and adjusting the saw setup, it is sensible to begin by opening the doors, as this provides some additional security that the machine won’t start while you are setting it up. |
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* Check the motor is in the correct gear and the drive belt is on the right ratio pulley. |
* Check the motor is in the correct gear and the drive belt is on the right ratio pulley. |
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* Check that a suitable blade is fitted for the job you intend to undertake, ideally between 6 and 12 teeth on the blade should be in the work at any given time. Less than this is likely to result in a rough cut, more than this may result in clogging and excessive heat production |
* Check that a suitable blade is fitted for the job you intend to undertake, ideally between 6 and 12 teeth on the blade should be in the work at any given time. Less than this is likely to result in a rough (but fast) cut, more than this may result in clogging and excessive heat production |
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* Check that the blade is centered on the upper wheel. This is important, so that the blade runs true, and the set of the teeth don’t chew up the tires on the wheels, if it's not correctly centered then post on the list or ask someone with level-2 induction to adjust it. |
* Check that the blade is centered on the upper wheel. This is important, so that the blade runs true, and the set of the teeth don’t chew up the tires on the wheels, if it's not correctly centered then post on the list or ask someone with level-2 induction to adjust it. |
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* Check that the blade is appropriately tensioned, using either the guide inside the saw, or on the back of the saw. The numbers correspond to the blade depth in mm, which is measured from the back of the blade to the bottom of the gullet. Make sure you are looking at the appropriate side of the guide, for wood or metal as the scales are quite confusing. |
* Check that the blade is appropriately tensioned, using either the guide inside the saw, or on the back of the saw. The numbers correspond to the blade depth in mm, which is measured from the back of the blade to the bottom of the gullet. Make sure you are looking at the appropriate side of the guide, for wood or metal as the scales are quite confusing. |
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*** Bring forward the guide bearings so that the sit just behind the gullet of the blade. |
*** Bring forward the guide bearings so that the sit just behind the gullet of the blade. |
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*** Lock off the forward motion of the guide bearings. The thrust bearing moves relative to the guide bearings hence why it is done in this order; If you set the thrust bearing first it will likely need adjustment after the guide bearings are set. |
*** Lock off the forward motion of the guide bearings. The thrust bearing moves relative to the guide bearings hence why it is done in this order; If you set the thrust bearing first it will likely need adjustment after the guide bearings are set. |
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*** Use the elliptical nuts to rotate in the guide bearings so that are |
*** Use the elliptical nuts to rotate in the guide bearings so that are very close to the blade, less than half a millimetre and ideally almost but not quite touching. You can use 2-4 sheets of paper as a guide to what's a suitable distance. |
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*** Move the thrust bearing forward so it is |
*** Move the thrust bearing forward so it is similarly close to the back of the blade. |
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*** Lock off all the adjustments. |
*** Lock off all the adjustments. |
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** Set the upper bearings. |
** Set the upper bearings. |
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*** Release the lock on the blade guard and set the blade guard so that the bottom of the guide bearings are approximately 5mm above the top of the work piece then lock off the adjustment. |
*** Release the lock on the blade guard and set the blade guard so that the bottom of the guide bearings are approximately 5mm above the top of the work piece then lock off the adjustment. |
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*** Set the guide and thrust bearings in the same order as for the lower bearings. |
*** Set the guide and thrust bearings in the same order as for the lower bearings. |
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** To see if the bearings are set right, start the saw. If you see or hear any of the bearings |
** To see if the bearings are set right, start the saw. If you see or hear any of the bearings spinning when the saw is not under load, then adjustments should be made. Turn off the saw and make the adjustments. Never adjust any bearings while the saw is on. If a bearing moves occasionally but isn't consistently spinning, that's OK. |
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|| Getting the Bandsaw set up properly. Ideally have the inductee(s) do the bearing setup as they'll need to do this quite often to keep it cutting well. |
|| Getting the Bandsaw set up properly. Ideally have the inductee(s) do the bearing setup as they'll need to do this quite often to keep it cutting well. |
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| Operation || |
| Operation || |
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* Check if the welder is in use, they share a power connection and will trip out if both are used at once |
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* When making the cut, hold the work piece securely against the table, and guide work into the blade. If you can't get the work securely held flat against the table, you can't cut it. Loose work not firmly against the table with snatch and break the blade. |
* When making the cut, hold the work piece securely against the table, and guide work into the blade. If you can't get the work securely held flat against the table, you can't cut it. Loose work not firmly against the table with snatch and break the blade. |
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* If you're rip-cutting then you should be resting the work against the fence, if you're cross-cutting use the mitre guide or the vice, if you're cutting curves then you'll have to do it free-hand |
* If you're rip-cutting then you should be resting the work against the fence, if you're cross-cutting use the mitre guide or the vice, if you're cutting curves then you'll have to do it free-hand |
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* Do not push too hard into the blade, as you will damage the blade and get a poor quality cut. |
* Do not push too hard into the blade, as you will damage the blade and get a poor quality cut. |
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* Feed rate and pressure depends on the materials properties and dimensions, as well as the blades specification and condition and machine setup. So it needs to be felt – rather like changing gear in a car. However, it should never be hard work to push something through; if it is, stop the cut and consider if everything is set correctly. |
* Feed rate and pressure depends on the materials properties and dimensions, as well as the blades specification and condition and machine setup. So it needs to be felt – rather like changing gear in a car. However, it should never be hard work to push something through; if it is, stop the cut and consider if everything is set correctly. |
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* Start |
* Start the saw, make the cut, turn off the saw, the dust extractor will shut off after 15 seconds |
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* Do not try to remove off-cuts from immediately around the blade with your fingers |
* Do not try to remove off-cuts from immediately around the blade with your fingers |
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* Especially when taking thin shaves off materials be aware the the off-cut can fall down into the lower bearings and that's dangerous to the machine, try to find a way to prevent this if you can safely do so. |
* Especially when taking thin shaves off materials be aware the the off-cut can fall down into the lower bearings and that's dangerous to the machine, try to find a way to prevent this if you can safely do so. |
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* Spin the blade by hand and adjust the blade tracking to seat it into proper position |
* Spin the blade by hand and adjust the blade tracking to seat it into proper position |
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* Bring the blade up to the normal tension for that thickness |
* Bring the blade up to the normal tension for that thickness |
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* Tracking adjustment will now be needed |
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* Set the blade guide bearings |
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* Tracking and blade lead correction will be needed (see below) |
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|| Different blades are used to get access to the full capacities of the saw |
|| Different blades are used to get access to the full capacities of the saw |
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* Start the saw and move the adjuster slowly, noting which way the blade moves |
* Start the saw and move the adjuster slowly, noting which way the blade moves |
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* Get the correct position |
* Get the correct position |
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** Using the guide tool and a ruler |
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** How accurate it needs to be depends on what you're doing, within a millimeter or so is typical |
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** If you're fitting the old blade back and leaving it for others, be as accurate as you reasonably can |
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* Stop the saw and re-fit all bearing guides and adjust them properly |
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|| Blade will tend to twist if not tracked properly |
|| Blade will tend to twist if not tracked properly |
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* Inductees fit new blade |
* Inductees fit new blade |
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* Take care with the tension, it's easy to snap a thin blade. If you've not adjusted the tension gauges and they're out, now is a good time to do so |
* Take care with the tension, it's easy to snap a thin blade. If you've not adjusted the tension gauges and they're out, now is a good time to do so |
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* Precise tracking adjustment is very challenging on thin blades, so it's normally to just center it on the wheels and leave it at that |
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* Greater accuracy is required with setting the bearing guides |
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* Greater accuracy is required with setting the bearing guides, a tighter fit will give you more control for freehand cuts but don't leave it like that when you're done as it'll wear out the bearings |
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* Very thin blades are most often used for fine curved work, not usually against the fence or mitre gauge |
* Very thin blades are most often used for fine curved work, not usually against the fence or mitre gauge |
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* If you need to cut something even finer than these blades can do, consider the laser or scroll saw. |
* If you need to cut something even finer than these blades can do, consider the laser or scroll saw. |
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|| Correcting blade lead will result in neater cuts and longer blade life. |
|| Correcting blade lead will result in neater cuts and longer blade life. |
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| Working with rough and odd shaped wood || |
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Irregularly shaped wood, such as old twisted timber, or green wood, or bits of tree can all be cut but considerably greater care is needed. |
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* Try to figure out if there's any way you can make it rest flat against the table, if yes you can cut it as normal, just be careful |
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* If the shape is sufficiently odd that you can't get a flat surface resting on the table then you'll need to MAKE a flat surface so that it can be cut safely |
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** If you're able to make a rip-cut along the work's length safely you might find you can prepare a flat surface that way |
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** If there's a surface that's already close to flat then you may be able to use the planner to make it flat enough |
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** If all else fails you can build a sled to carry your work through the saw that has a flat bottom and then screw the work onto it |
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*** Be very careful not to cut through the screws with the saw blade, serious damage is certain if you do. |
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* Some situations are especially dangerous and should be avoided completely |
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** Cutting across round stock - Cutting along round stock can often be done with care but cutting across it (for example trying to cut rounds off of a tree branch) is exceptionally risky. The saw is very likely to snatch at the timber and rotate it very fast. If you're lucky this will result in friction burns, if you're unlucky... broken bones, crushed or cut-off fingers, cuts and major blood loss. |
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** Cutting anything where the blade is likely to contact the top of the work before the bottom - Unless the work is long enough to be stable then there's a serious risk that the blade catching the top edge will rotate the work and slam it down into the table extremely hard. Damage to the saw, and potentially broken bones are possible here. |
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* Whenever cutting non-standard timber you need to pay special attention to how the cut is going. If you're getting snatching, erratic cutting, blade moving off to one side or excessive heating these are all warning signs that's something going wrong and you need to stop. You won't always get these warning signs before something bad happens, but if you do get any of them, DON'T IGNORE THEM! |
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|| People are doing this, might as well make it safe |
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| Checking and changing oil, cleaning table || |
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* Cleaning and waxing the table |
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Oil in the bandsaw should be changed every 12 months, or sooner if it's looking contaminated |
Oil in the bandsaw should be changed every 12 months, or sooner if it's looking contaminated |
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Latest revision as of 15:34, 9 November 2023
Some of the tools at the Hackspace are potentially hazardous to use, for these tools members are required to have an induction before they can use them. Inductions provide the most basic information on how to safely and effectively use the simpler functions of the tools, we appreciate that some members may have professional experience on some of these tools and in this case please tell your induction provider and the induction may be very reduced and just cover any risks or procedures specific to rLab. Some tools have multiple levels of induction in order to cover more advanced uses of that tool without making the basic induction take too long, higher induction levels will introduce some of the more advanced features of the tools but as with all inductions are only intended to provide basic information on the capabilities of the tools and how to use them safely. Some members of rLab may be willing to offer more detailed tuition beyond basic induction level or offer guided practice sessions in exchange for beer money or assistance on their own projects.
For all tools you are only required to take level-1 induction before use, after that you may perform any task that you feel confident you can do safely, higher levels of induction may be useful to you in performing more advanced operations but are not required before doing tasks covered in them so long as you're confident of your ability to handle those tasks without risk to yourself, others, or the tool.
PLEASE NOTE : All induction providers are volunteers who are providing inductions to the best of their ability but are NOT qualified instructors. Inductions are provided on a best-effort basis but you and you alone are responsible for your safety while using the tools and for satisfying yourself that you can operate the tools safely. There are professional training courses available from various providers in Reading and the surrounding area if you feel they are appropriate for the level of work you intend to undertake. Reading these notes is NOT a substitute for an in-person induction.
Note for wiki editors : Please do not edit induction pages unless you are one of of the people that gives that induction
There are two levels of band saw induction, level 1 covers the basic setup and use of the machine for easier to process materials such as wood and composite materials; level 2 covers changing the band saw blade to facilitate a wider range of cuts, and metal cutting.
Band saw – level 1[edit]
This band saw is designed to be a wood and metal cutting band saw, and so can be used to machine a range of materials, including but not limited to softwoods, hardwoods, composite materials (such as plywood, MDF, OSB), some plastics, and a range of metals (not hardened).
Topic | Detailed contents | Rationale |
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Bandsaw's capabilities |
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What's this tool intended to do so people know when to choose this tool and when to pick something else. |
Machine overview |
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Basics of how the bandsaw works, need to know how it does what it does in order to understand what might go wrong. |
Suitable clothing & PPE |
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Basic safety information on PPE and dust control |
Start-up/Shutdown |
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Stopping and starting! Turning off when unattended and making sure the area is clear which is a safety issue |
Machine setup |
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Getting the Bandsaw set up properly. Ideally have the inductee(s) do the bearing setup as they'll need to do this quite often to keep it cutting well. |
Setting up for your cut |
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Getting set up so you can perform the cut safely, what to look for when setting up and cutting to stay safe |
Operation |
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Actually making the cut and getting the feel for what are suitable cut speeds in various materials, demonstrating the safety procedures so people can see how they work |
Making test cuts to get a feel for it |
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Making test cuts with someone around who can advise on work-holding and speeds of cut so the inductees get a good feel for things |
Cleaning up afterwards |
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Leave the saw cleaner than you found it, cleanliness is a safety issue when working around others. |
Miscellaneous extra info |
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Other information |
Bandsaw - Level 2[edit]
Level-2 induction in intended to cover some of the more advanced uses of the bandsaw as well as some of the maintenance and adjustment procedures.
Topic | Detailed contents | Rationale |
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Cleaning the Bandsaw |
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Keeping it clean and lubricated makes it operate much easier |
Checking blade tension |
Using the guides on the inside and outside to verify the blade tension
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Wrong blade tension will give misleading results on the rest of the tests |
Checking the blade condition |
Visual examination of the blade, looking for oscillations, twists or missing teeth
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Checking if the blade is still fit for use |
Removing the blade |
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Getting the old blade off so maintenance can be done |
Cleaning Tyres |
There are rubber tyres on the steel wheels of the bandsaw that the blade runs on, they tend to get sawdust embedded in them over time
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Blade will ride poorly over dirty tyres resulting in bad cuts and shortened blade life. |
Checking belt tension |
Tension on the drive belt should be checked now and then, especially after changing gear
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Belts will stretch with time |
Fitting a new blade |
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Different blades are used to get access to the full capacities of the saw |
Checking Blade tracking |
How the adjustments work, positioning the blade properly on the tyres
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Blade will tend to twist if not tracked properly |
Using sliding metal vice |
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We have this so might as well know how to use it, even if it is superseded |
Switching in a very fine blade |
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Using the fine blade for detailed work |
Nulling blade lead |
Blades will tend not to cut accurately against the fence when first fitted so there's a need to adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade. If it's not set correctly then the blade will tend to push/pull the work towards/away from the fence and give wonky cuts. The blade lead also drifts over time as the blade wears because the wear is seldom perfectly symmetric, so if you notice that the saw is pulling to one side while cutting then the lead probably needs adjusting.
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Correcting blade lead will result in neater cuts and longer blade life. |
Working with rough and odd shaped wood |
Irregularly shaped wood, such as old twisted timber, or green wood, or bits of tree can all be cut but considerably greater care is needed.
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People are doing this, might as well make it safe |
Checking and changing oil, cleaning table |
Oil in the bandsaw should be changed every 12 months, or sooner if it's looking contaminated
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Regular maintenance is required to keep the gearbox running nicely |
Using the tilting table |
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Making angled and mitred cuts |