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Tools/TIG/induction: Difference between revisions
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== TIG welder induction (TIG Mode) Level 1 ==
Level 1 induction in intended to cover the basics of how to use the [[Tools/TIG|TIG welder]], it covers basic safety information and how to use the welder effectively on mild and stainless steel in positions 1G and 2G/F
{| class="wikitable"
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* Forge - V.V.Slow, good for big flat welds, high-skilled
* Spot - Tiny spot welds for joining plate, low-skilled
* Gas - Gas welding is most similar to TIG but we don't have it at rLab for safety reasons
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| Safety ||
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** Using an auto-darkening welding mask
** Suitable settings on mask (9-11, 12 maybe - start at 10 and adjust)
*** Testing visors before use
*** Any setting will save your vision, you're just adjusting for best visibility
** Shouting "Eyes"
* PPE - Overalls, stout shoes, gloves, mask, dust protection when needed, Cover all exposed skin or you'll regret it!
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* Machine strikes arc between the work and a non-consumable tungsten electrode, melting a pool of metal
** TIG welding is the most similar welding process to soldering but there's still an important difference. In TIG welding you're melting the base material and allowing it to flow together, not only adding material on top
* Filler wire is added manually while moving the torch forming a weld bead that joins the metals
* Gas shields the weld pool and the tungsten from air exposure
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* Gas bottle
** Type of gas and why
** Basic safety for the Albee bottles
|| Covering what all the parts are called and do
|-
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** Types and their suitability
*** 2% Thoriated (Red Tip) - DC Welding on steels only, radiation danger
*** 2% Lanthanated (Blue Tip) - Universal, can be used on all metals and polarities, recommended for normal use
*** 2% Ceriated (Grey Tip) - DC use on thin materials, excellent arc stability at low powers
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* Welder
** Checking correct polarity, making sure earth lead is connected to work
** Check tightness of connectors, they'll catch fire if they're loose!
** Plug in welder but don't turn on yet. Directly plug in, never use extension leads
* Gas
** Check remaining gas level
** Setting suitable gas flow rate using
** Connecting cylinder▼
▲** Setting suitable gas flow rate using both bottles using the table on the welder, but consider situation of weld
||
Suitable setup and settings for executing the weld
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** Pulse mode
*** Useful sometimes but details not covered in level-1, leave this turned off
** Purge - Used to clear air from the lines
** Power and overheat lights - Duty cycle, 100%@90A, 60%@115A, 20%@200A but max is about 120A on 13A plug
** Process
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{| class="wikitable"
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! Basic Current & Gas !! 40A/mm of material thickness !! 1L/min per cup number
|-
| Inside corner || +10% current
|-
| Outside Corner || -10% current
|-
| Stainless Steel || -10% Current
|}
** Preflow - Time in seconds, is used to establish coverage of shield gas before the arc is ignited. How much to use will depend a little on what you're doing but 0.5-1.0 seconds is usually reasonable for steel
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* Overalls are required for UV protection
* We have special TIG gloves that are much lighter and less stiff than normal welding gloves which can be used because TIG doesn't generate very much radiant heat or spatter. These gloves are made of goatskin or pigskin and are specifically reserved for TIG welding and must not be used for anything else
* Welding masks will protect your face and eyes from the UV light
* Depending on the welding current you may want to use shade 9-12 on the welding helmet. All settings will save your vision, you're just adjusting for best visibility. If you're used to MIG/MMA then go one setting darker than you normally would for this current. Make sure the mask is clean, dirty lenses will make this a lot harder than it needs to be.▼
** Test the visor before use
** Change the cover sheets on them if necessary, report it if we're out of properly fitting replacements
▲** Depending on the welding current you may want to use shade 9-12 on the welding helmet. All settings will save your vision, you're just adjusting for best visibility. If you're used to MIG/MMA then go one setting darker than you normally would for this current
* You may see people online welding without overalls or even without gloves. They can get away with this because of the low-spatter nature of TIG welding. DO NOT DO THIS - They are probably wearing SPF-1000 sunblock and have developed a tolerance over years, they'll still probably wind up getting skin cancer from it! Cover all exposed skin at all times while welding.
|| Using the right PPE for TIG welding
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| Travel too fast || Gaps/thin spots in bead || Fast movement has pulled the bead forward faster than the welder could melt the material
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| Laying a bead using filler ||
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* Holding the tip of the filler rod near the puddle so that it's shielded, but not so close it melts
* Dipping the tip of the filler rod into the nose of the puddle and quickly back out again
** Contact with the puddle melts the filler rod, not the arc
* The puddle will rise every time you dip the rod so be careful it doesn't touch the electrode
* May be helpful to use stepped movements on the electrode
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[Inductee practices laying a filler bead]
|| Laying a bead while using filler
|}
Depending on how things are going and the amount of time available the induction can stop here and allow the inductees to practice welding until they're comfortable with reflow and filler beads. The induction can resume on another day to complete the training on how to actually join metal together. If so the "Shutting down and cleaning up" section below should also be covered.
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! Topic !! Detailed contents !! Rationale
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| Butt joints ||
[Coupons used must be 2mm thick steel, thinner makes this too hard for inductions]
* Can be done with (conventional) or without (re-flow) filler
* Proper grinding and prep
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|-
| Fillet joints ||
[Coupons used must be 2mm thick steel, thinner makes this too hard for inductions]
* Don't need to grind, but parts need to be clean
* Good fit-up essential
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|-
| Lap joint ||
[Talk about but don't demonstrate this type]
* Lack of need for grinding but must still be cleaned
* Treat it as two fillet joints
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|-
| Final thoughts ||
* This has only been
* Do not expect your joints to be structurally sound until you have practiced a lot
* If you want to weld aluminium or magnesium alloys, TIG-Braze or other techniques then you're welcome to come back for level-2 induction although it's not at all compulsory if you think you can manage these techniques without
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== TIG welder induction (TIG Mode) Level 2 ==
Level 2 TIG induction is intended to allow people to convert from working on steel to
[[Category:inductions]]▼
* Working on and welding aluminium, magnesium, silicon alloys
** Using AC rather than DC and why
*** Using wave-balance
** Different electrode types
** Reduced current handling on AC
*** Must be used on 2T mode
*** How to set the current range on it
*** Practice using it to ramp up and down current
** Balling the tip, not necessary but helpful
** Letting the puddle form then moving
** The puddle is a lot more fluid than on steel
** Care with how you use the filler rod
** Backing down current near edges and as material heats up
** Anti-cratering at the end
* Further develop the skills required for more challenging welding applications such as position 3&4 welds
* TIG brazing
* Use of 4T mode
* Using pulse mode
* Using gas lens system
* Maintaining & Cleaning the torch
* When and how to use back-purge (we don't have any fittings for it)
▲[[Category:inductions]]
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