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==Knife Sharpening - An aide Memoire==
Starting Point: Shape of knife already done and rough bevel created, double-bevel shape already created.
This page is not finished and are just rough notes based on the [[Workshops/bladesmithing|bladesmithing]] workshop
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===General Process===
*Choose an angle and hold it as stable as you can. Can be helpful to move entire upper body rather than just arms. Do not "Roll" the knife over the stone. Angle might get slightly steeper as you go up the grits if you're aiming for a prismatic grind but is usually constant.
*Firm Pull stroke on stones, very light push stroke (to prevent nicking stones), Sharpening on the push stroke is a thing that can be done and it actually results in a (slightly) nicer edge than pull strokes if it's done perfectly, but it's much easier to get wrong and damage both blade and stones so it's strongly discouraged on the lab-owned stones
*Should only have to do 400 Grit when first shaping edge, unless you've badly nicked the blade
*Clean Knife between grits - otherwise previous swarf can scratch blade - water and wipe
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*Burr probably too small to be felt
===4000 F3 (triple fine)
*Polishing the cutting edge, razor sharp at this point and usable even in quite soft materials
*Use only light pressure on both strokes
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====Stropping 30000 grit====
*Puts a mirror polish on the edge
*Result under microscope: Definite shine, like mirror
*Only pull strokes on leather strop, 30/40 on each side with stropping compound
*Hard-backed strops make it easier to hold proper angle, flexible strops will round-over the edge if not used very carefully
===Time Taken
*30 mins for
*High-end tool steel - double numbers above
*Super-steels and ceramic blades are not sharpenable by this process and require diamond lapping compounds and suitable pads.
==Resharpening Blade==
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